GINZA SIX EDITORS
Fashion, jewelry & watch, lifestyle, beauty, foods…
Unique editors who are familiar with each genre GINZA SIX aimlessly
We spell way of enjoying that we found on foot.
New Landmark which it is not permitted passing by for wine lover A New Landmark No Wine Lover Should Miss
Ginza Six Editors Vol.18 (Food)
We are felt jealous of from all around when we live by occupation called wine journalists saying it is saying "delicious wine may be able to always drink". As my wife is rival, in fact, we will never miss wine on dining table of every evening. However, there is sometimes that even such my family runs out of stock of wine every day. It is wine shop Enoteca regularly from old days to rely.
Acquaintance with Enoteca is long. At the beginning of the 90s when only Hiroo had store yet, we bought high wine of cost performance such as "arudesshu Chardonnay" of Cabernet so vinyon and Louis La Tour of "monte" and have had fun of cherry blossom viewing in Arisugawa shrine memory park. Then we do soon and develop branch in all over Japan. We made a foray into foreign countries and, in April, 2017, opened flagship shop in the second floor under the ground to the opening of business of GINZA SIX. It is the Great Leap Forward.
If give flagship shop, Shops of GINZA SIX is good, area and assortment of goods (more than what and 1,600 kinds!) largest in Enoteca . Enoteca is image that, in particular, resists Bordeaux, but Bourgogne is substantial, and in late years much-talked-about Japan wine is performed lineup of all the time Italy, the New World, too. However, it is big Japanese wine of hit loser for topic. As far as winery of Yamanashi whom I trust most, Koshu of "Grace wine" are glad of various prepared one in production center difference.
In fact, it arrived at Shops, and it was corner of rose wine at the very beginning to have jumped into eyes. As for the state that rose wine of 100 kinds forms a line, beauty of color is combined titled "silver rose" by rose of Ginza, too; and a word of the best part. Rose wine is already big boom in Europe and America. Rose looked forward to day when citizenship got impatiently in Japan. Sales top 3 of one month seemed to be all rose, and it is said that the force does not still decline from opening in anything. basatiriti with dishes is high, and white and red noiitokodorioshita rose wine think that it is item which is good to daily dining table of Japan among other things.
"Wine library" isolated in the depths of Shops, lattice door is gold mine. Cult wine of California including top chateau of Bordeaux such as "Margaux" and "La Tour", "col Gin" and "sukuriminguiguru" is enshrined. It is super high-quality wine more than six columns, but it is said all that, as is expected, as is expected, GINZA SIX, wine of this class move well Ginza. As for considering that you can buy, free (but calling out to person of shop as we are usually locked). Grand wine only looks at the label and can indulge in met mood.
There is cafe & bar for approach to continue from the second-floor main floor under the ground to wine shop. It is luxury that we release on coverage day, and the best can swallow up interval by glass from few Beaujolais Nouveau to chateau mouton rotchirudo of 2013. Good mulled wine is prepared on freezing cold day. One cup of wine to taste between shopping while looking at label image of mouton which Picasso and Warhol drew. We let you give birth.
From corner where prestige champagne including "crystal" of Naruhito Yoshioka limited edition and Louis rodereru of "Don periniyon" forms a line for Christmas of my home to selection of one, the thirteenth-floor "romudutanshiniea nu."
Sisters shop of Hiroo "a nyuruturuvevu." Chef is Yuichi Minohara who acted as Sioux chef of the shop. Wine producer visited Japan from South Africa after summer, and press lunch called at this restaurant in open occasion, but the bottom of heart admired perfect mariaju.
It is said that there is pairing menu to match wine with every person plate of course dishes if we hear. It is the powerful charm at restaurant to choose one wine from list, but often enjoys it recently in shop with pairing menu. In part compromise being forced to somewhere by all means when recent French has much number of the plates and put all dishes with one wine. It is out of curiosity to want to taste wonderful skill of mariaju of the sommelier whole body in the other.
Eclair that basic AMUSE sandwiches visitor oneself tool materials between cloth hot from the oven and finishes. Oyster and turnip, combination called cream of white kabosu that we tossed ingredients materials on this day in mackerel which we covered with Pimento esupuretto in vinegar. It was Champagne, buran de NOIR of "bunowa rae" that Tomonori Inage sommelier added and this. There is flavor of fruit which is red with white visually in white Champagne made only from black grape with buran de NOIR and wraps flavor of dark colored flesh of fish of mackerel in oblate.
Next is tartar of smoked scallop and Jerusalem artichoke which we did for tip of cherry tree at moment. Caviar is performed topping of on the top. It is sake how that it looks good, but Inage sommelier recommends even if we just continue Champagne. It is the sake industry where tendency to reflux continues, but it is said that we want to introduce positively as and we are young being excellent made hands increase. Purely U.S. great brewing sake from the finest rice of Niigata "Nishiki, Kamo." That it is image to enjoy sake while saltiness of caviar has salt with point.
Borscht style of bonito of Kesennuma that we warmed in bincho charcoal quickly successively. As for the red pasta-formed thing, as for crouton, the green, it is Dill to be black in beetroot. California adds Santa Barbara, Cabernet franc of "block sellers" and this. It is fresh and is elegant, and, as for Cabernet franc of katsu and others kana taste, fishy smell of dark colored flesh of fish of bonito is not emphasized, and Nuance which is kind special her bal is neutralized in Dill of accent.
It is another one article, meuniere of soft roe of cod to appetizer. Tip of Gruyere, bubble of rosemary are attached to sauce of garland chrysanthemum. Wine is vire kuresse of "domenu de Bong orchid". Chardonnay of feel of a material that was thick to creamy soft roe. As for this pairing, harmony of texture is splendid.
Fish dishes carried oyster which we chopped on the Spanish mackerel finely on board and smothered. We have with cream sauce of Champagne. As for Inage sommelier pouring saying "we reset in mouth save", Greece is white wine of santorini island, acyl Tycho of "fellow shop". It features pure acidity and feeling of mineral, and the whole entrance is wiped neatly. In addition, iodofeeling to let you feel the sea breeze of the Aegean Sea played flavor of oyster and wonderful harmony.
As for the meat dishes fly, it is roasted deer, powaburadososu of red currant. Constitution to close with classic dishes after it is avant-garde, and plate which we attacked followed finally. Wine is royal road in royal road, shatonufu du papu of "chateau la neruto", too. As for obtaining, element in plate including sweetness of deer and fruit taste of gurunasshu-based wine, flavor of red fruit and spicy aftertaste and the contents of glass are *zenichitaika. It is right mariaju of textbook.
Dessert is given free with wagon and likes thing you like. Lunch course 7,000 yen (tax, service distinction), pricing of pairing course 6,000 yen of wine are really reasonable in this. We want to call with my wife by all means on the next time. It is a pleasure how she who is noisy evaluates unusually in mariaju.
Abundant wine is prepared so as to hesitate about choice from home business to present use, and drinking is slightly possible in bar. GINZA SIX to be able to enjoy until dishes and pairing of wine more slowly and more carefully. It may be said that it is new Landmark which it is not permitted passing by for wine lover.
Text: Tadayuki Yanagi Photos: Toshio Tagaya Edit: Yuka Okada
If you make your living as a wine journalist like I do, the people you know may be a bit envious and say things like, “It must be great being able to drink delicious wine all the time.” My wife is in the same profession, so we in fact never do let an evening meal go by without wine. But even at our house, our stock of everyday wine sometimes runs out. When this happens, for a long time now, I’ve depended on Enoteca wine shops.
I’ve been a patron of Enoteca for a good while. At the start of the 1990s, when it was just a single shop in Hiroo, I’d buy excellent but reasonably priced wines like the Montes’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Louis Latour’s Ardèche Chardonnay. I’d bring them to Arisugawa-no-miya Memorial Park for festive occasions under the cherry blossoms. Since that time, in no time at all really, Enoteca has become a chain with shops all over Japan. It’s even opened stores overseas. When GINZA SIX opened its doors in April 2017, it opened its flagship store on the second belowground floor. Enoteca has made great strides.
As befits a flagship, the GINZA SIX shop has the largest floor space among any Enoteca location, offering the most extensive selection (over 1,600 varieties!). Enoteca has a reputation for a marked strength in Bordeaux, but its lineup of Burgundy wines is also impressive. And it also stocks Italian wines, New World wines, and Japanese wines, which have been the talk of the town in recent years, even if Japanese wines remain very much a hit-or-miss affair. I’m pleased to see that the shop stocks the different varieties, based on the particular vineyard, of Koshu from Grace Wine, the Yamanashi winery I trust most.
When I arrived at the store, what first caught my eye was the rosé wine section. Named “Ginza Rosé” at the Ginza shop, the section features some 100 varieties of rosé wine. Together with their beautiful color, they make for a stunning sight. Rosé wine is already trendy right now in North America and Europe. I’d been waiting and hoping for the day rosé would gain some popularity in Japan. In the first month after the GINZA SIX store opened, I’m told, all top three sellers were rosé wines. This momentum hasn’t waned. Rosé takes all the best of red wine and of white wine. It’s highly versatile when paired with food, and I think it makes the perfect wine in particular for everyday meals in Japan.
At the rear of the store behind a trellised door is the Wine Repository and its treasure trove of wines. Wines from Bordeaux grand crus like Margaux and Latour, along with cult classics from California like Colgin and Screaming Eagle, are enshrined here. These are all ultra-high-end, six-figure wines, but of course you can find them in Ginza, and of course at GINZA SIX. This class of wine also moves well, you might say. But even if you don’t buy, you’re free to look (the door is normally locked, so just ask the shop staff to open it for you). Just gazing at the labels of these great wines can be an illuminating experience.
On the approach from the main floor of the second belowground floor to the wine store, you’ll find a café and bar. On the day I found myself there, one could enjoy the luxury of drinking wines by the glass, ranging from the just-released Beaujolais Nouveau to the ultimate, a 2013 Château Mouton Rothschild. They have warm wines as well, perfect for a cold day when the ground freezes. While taking in the Mouton labels drawn by Picasso and Andy Warhol, you can enjoy a delicious glass of wine during a break from shopping. Bottoms up!
I choose one bottle for our Christmas at home from the prestige champagne section, which includes Dom Perignon Limited Edition by Tokujin Yoshioka and Louis Roederer’s Cristal, then make my way to L’homme du Temps signé à nu on the thirteenth floor.
It’s the sister restaurant of à nu retrouvez-vous in Hiroo. The chef is Yuichi Minohara, who was the Hiroo establishment’s sous-chef. I’d been here once before for a press lunch held when wine producers from South Africa visited Japan and came away at that time filled with admiration for the felicity of the pairings. On asking, I was informed that the restaurant has a pairing menu that matches wines to each item on the course menu. Choosing a bottle off a list is one of the true joys of restaurant dining, but at restaurants with a pairing menu, there’s even more to enjoy. One reason is the range of dishes that characterize recent French cuisine, and one bottle of wine for all means some compromise is inevitable. Another joy comes from tasting what the experienced sommelier recommends.
An established aspect of the enjoyment is the éclairs, which the customers get to complete by putting the ingredients between the toasted dough themselves. The ingredients are a combination of mackerel sprinkled with piment d’Espelette, oyster and turnip dressed with vinegar, and white kabosu cream. The sommelier, Tomonori Inage, paired this with a Blanc de Noirs champagne from Benoît Lahaye, a white champagne made entirely from black grapes. Although the appearance is white, it has the flavor of a red and envelopes the flavor of the mackerel, as if in a wafer.
Next is tartar made with scallops, smoked briefly with cherry blossom chips, and artichokes topped with caviar. Continuing with the champagne seems like a blameless choice, but the sommelier recommends, surprisingly, sake. The Japanese sake industry’s fortunes are on the downswing, but the sommelier says that there are many excellent new producers he would like to introduce. The sake he brings out is pure premium sake (no adding distilled alcohol!) from Kamonishiki in Niigata. The salty essence of the caviar is a key point and makes the sake all the more delightful.
Next is Kesennuma bonito grilled over high-grade bincho charcoal and served with red borsch-style beets. The red comes from the beets, which are shaved in the shape of noodles. The croutons account for the black; dill accounts for the green. This is paired with a cabernet franc from Broc Cellars in Santa Barbara, California. The fresh, silky, elegant cabernet franc, with its herbal accents, a characteristic of this variety, harmonizes with the dill without overemphasizing the flavor of the bonito.
The final appetizer is Pacific cod milt meunière dressed with Gruyère cheese and rosemary meringue in a chrysanthemum sauce. The wine is Viré-Clessé from Domaine de la Bongran. A thick and rich chardonnay paired with a creamy milt—this combination makes for a wonderful harmony of textures.
The fish is Spanish mackerel topped with minced oyster, steam-baked, and served with a champagne cream sauce. “To reset your palate,” the sommelier pours me a white wine from the Greek island of Santorini, Assyrtiko by Gaia. The pure acidity and mineral flavor are this wine’s notable characteristics, and it cleanses the palate nicely. And there’s a slight iodine taste reminding of the winds of the Aegean Sea, which goes splendidly with the oyster flavors.
The meat dish is roasted venison in a red currant poivrade sauce. After a number of avant-garde dishes, then, the meal closes with a classic. The wine is a standard among standards, Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château La Nerthe. The sweetness of the venison, the fruitiness of the Grenache-based wine, and the red fruit flavor and lingering spices in the finish—the elements of the dish and the contents of the glass are in complete harmony, a truly textbook pairing.
Dessert is served from a dessert cart. You can choose what you’d like in the quantity you’d like. The lunch course is 7,000 yen (before tax and service charge), and the wine-pairing course is 6,000 yen, so the prices are quite reasonable. I’m definitely going to bring my wife next time around. She tends to be highly opinionated about pairings, and I look forward to what she has to say.
An extensive selection of wine for every occasion, from drinking at home to presenting as gifts—so much wine it can be hard to choose, plus a bar for a few sips, and a restaurant where you can take your time enjoying food and wine pairings—all at GINZA SIX. It’s a new landmark no wine lover can miss.
Text: Tadayuki Yanagi, Photos: Toshio Tagaya, Edit: Yuka Okada
Tadayuki YanagiWine journalist. Born in 1965. Embarked on freelance career in 1997 after working as a writer at a wine journal. Writes numerous articles for publications like BRUTUS,Winart, and GQ JAPAN. Instructor at Jiyugaoka Wine School. Well regarded for incisive and theoretical criticism based on the knowledge of soil and history.
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