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A Curator’s Vision and Boundless Hospitality Recall the Art of Chanoyu A Curator’s Vision and Boundless Hospitality Recall the Art of Chanoyu
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.27
This time, I went around GINZA SIX carefully and felt that there was a origin of hospitality that led to the secret of tea ceremony. Suddenly, when it comes to tea ceremony, there may be many promises and some people may feel that the threshold is high. Certainly, the range covered by tea ceremony is very wide. Salt plums in the alleys from planting garden trees to stonework. It includes all aspects of the lifestyle, from fine-grained construction around the tea room to calligraphy necessary for the preparation between the floors, tea flowers, charcoal tools to incense to kaiseki dishes, confectionery, and seasonal kimonos. It was an interesting place in the tea ceremony to add artistic sensitivity to all of them, and Senrikyu was the master. From a different perspective, GINZA SIX also directs a comprehensive lifestyle, and I think that it is a tea ceremony that a beautiful and edited mechanism is applied everywhere. was there. Rikyu was also a tea master, but at the same time was an art director with aesthetic eyes and an event producer, but if he revived and saw GINZA SIX, he would be surprised everywhere, saying, "I was done!" I guess. I'm also a teaman, so this time I'm going to be Rikyu-san, and I'd like to go around GINZA SIX selected from the teaman's perspective.
The KUROGI CHACHA's store on the second basement floor is exactly the same as the tea ceremony. When you enter the store through a small alley with a squatting arrangement, a five-person counter like a tea room in a small room is arranged to create an extraordinary feeling in the mountains of the city.
The menu here is only "Taicha-zuke", a specialty (3,000 yen or less, all + tax's price. But it's just a cup of tea and an insult. Although it is not a soup of tea ceremony, in addition to rice and miso soup, this set may include fresh sea bream sashimi, small bowls, vinegar, and incense made with specially made sesame. This is enough kaiseki cuisine.
First of all, after enjoying the sea bream with only the cooked white rice, taste it as a tea-zuke with another bowl. You can enjoy different flavors of miso. The tea can also be selected from sencha or roasted tea.
It is free to replace not only rice but also sesame seeds until they are satisfied. By the way, since it opens at 10:30 am, I would like to recommend it as a late breakfast. There are few places in Tokyo where you can eat delicious Japanese breakfast.
Desert sweets can be purchased as souvenirs. The upper half is katsukan containing Uji Matcha, and the lower half is made up of cream cheese from Hokkaido.
Matcha is served with confectionery. This store was founded in 1790 and collaborates with the long-established tea store "Fukujuen" in Kyoto, so you can enjoy authentic matcha.
On this day, a dress by Daisuke Nakamura, a familiar hand. "It's really fine,"
"GRAND CRU CAF ♡ GINZA" on the 13th floor is a coffee specialty store produced by Yoshiaki Kawashima, the founder of the mikafet and also known as a coffee hunter. It looks like a luxury French restaurant, but it is the ultimate salon of coffee, and it has a unique production in the world. Mr. Kawashima also had a relationship with NHK BS1 "El Mund", which I served as a regular before, but the theory that "coffee also has a way to enjoy like high-quality wine" It is a store that embodies.
The characteristic of this coffee is that the ultimate coffee beans carefully selected from all over the world are roasted and packed one by one in a bottle for champagne. Guests are a system that purchases and brews your favorite bottles as shown in the wine bar.
The reason why coffee beans are packed in champagne bottles is to contain carbon dioxide from beans. This is because carbon dioxide contains the original aroma and freshness of coffee beans. When the tap is opened in front of the guest, the fresh aroma of roasting spreads with a small sound called "pon". It's a pleasure you can only enjoy here.
A cup of coffee is dripped in front of the customer. On this day, Toshiki Masaki, a principal coffee evangelist, gave a talk. Squeeze and drip with 87 degrees of hot water. This is also the moment of official power.
The beans selected on this day are "Rio Crystal Gaysha Burgandy Natural" at Kotowa Farm in Panama. Kawashima always says "coffee is fruit", but this coffee also has a high-quality bulgoon wine-like berry fruit scent that comfortably escapes from the oral cavity to the nasal cavity.
This coffee cup is mostly made of old Noritake. The experience of drinking with a valuable vessel is also a special experience.
Also on the 13th floor, `` THE GRAND GINZA '' is based on the concept of `` a place for transmitting Japanese trends and culture suitable for adults in Ginza '', from a lounge, restaurant and party space on a floor of about 500 tsubo, a multipurpose hall, tea room, 12 seats We aim to provide comprehensive hospitality with a limited chef's counter and bar.
This time, we had a meal in the VIP room. It is surprising that there is such a Japanese space in the middle of Ginza. This is a reservation system, but if you pay a separate room fee, you can also enjoy the dishes of the attached restaurant "THE GRAND47".
The concept of "THE GRAND47" is that you can enjoy the materials and food culture of 47 prefectures every period (lunch course: 3,800 yen-, dinner course: 7,000 yen-). The theme from February 15 to March 31, 2018 is "Shikoku".
This appetizer is served as an image of the Naruto Strait, and the sea bream from Shikoku is used to tighten kelp.
The main dish is a seasonal bamboo shoot from Shikoku, which has just arrived, and a dish of olive beef on a gem.
The dessert was once popular as the taste of Ginza, and the recipe of "Ichigo Milkeil", a specialty of "Maxim de Paris", which was closed in 2015, was reproduced by the first patissier and former general manager at the time. It is said that you can take out only 20 pieces a day.
This time, it was a tea ceremony, so I dared to go around the GINZA SIX hall with kimono, but I was able to know that it was an art of life space suitable for adults to go around with kimono all day. It was a valuable experience.
Text: Takanori Nakamura Photos: Kanako Noguchi Edit: Yuka Okada
Having made my way around GINZA SIX intensely at a leisurely pace, I’ve concluded there’s a foundational hospitality here comparable to the inner essence of chanoyu, the tea ceremony. The association with the tea ceremony might sound unforeseen, and to some, perhaps, the tea ceremony brings to mind a profusion of esoteric rules. It’s certainly true that the tea ceremony covers a wide range. From the planting and cultivation of garden trees to the look of the pathway and the arrangement of the stones; from the architectural details of the tea room building to the appearance of the tea room itself and its hanging scroll and flower arrangements both indispensable for perfecting an alcove; from the charcoal implements and incense to the traditional kaiseki dishes, confections, and different kimonos to suit the seasons—it encompasses an entire way of life. All of these aspects are intricately detailed and suffused with an artistic sensibility. That’s what makes the tea ceremony, of which Sen no Rikyu was a master, so interesting.
Viewed from a certain perspective, GINZA SIX also produces a profusion of all-encompassing lifestyles. One sees aesthetic and curatorial devices everywhere, which is what prompted the association with chanoyu. Tea master Sen no Rikyu was, in a sense, an event producer and an art director with a keen aesthetic sense. If he were alive today to take in all that GINZA SIX is, he might well be taken aback by the evidence around all of his ideas and ideals. I’m a bit of a tea practitioner myself, so I went around GINZA SIX imagining I was Sen no Rikyu, making selections with a tea master’s eye.
The appearance of Kurogi Chacha on the second belowground floor is exactly like a tea room. You follow a little path by a stone basin and enter. You find a five-person counter laid out like a small tea room. It feels like a mountain villa in the city, a carefully orchestrated, extraordinary experience.
The only item on the menu here is Kurogi’s famous Tai Chazuke (rice soup with sea bream) (3,000 yen; all prices given are before tax). Don’t make the mistake of dismissing this as mere rice soup. It’s not the traditional soup and three side dishes, but the meal does come with rice and miso soup, fresh sea bream sashimi with special sesame sauce, a side dish in a small bowl, a vinegared dish, and pickled vegetables. Certainly adequate as a traditional kaiseki meal.
After starting with some of the sea bream with just freshly steamed white rice, I then enjoy the fish and the rice in a different bowl as rice soup. There’s miso as well, putting before the diner the option of multiple flavors. For the tea, too, you can choose from green tea, roasted green tea, and other varieties.
The rice is all-you-can-eat. In fact, so is the sea bream with sesame sauce. Incidentally, the restaurant opens at 10:30 a.m., so I’d certainly recommend it for a late breakfast. There are few places in Tokyo where you can enjoy delicious Japanese fare for breakfast.
The confection for dessert is Tokiba Shironeri, which can also be purchased as a gift or souvenir. The upper half is arrowroot jelly with Uji matcha tea; the lower half is Hokkaido cream cheese.
The matcha is prepared together with the confection. The restaurant collaborates with Fukujuen, a long-time Kyoto tea purveyor founded in 1790, so you can enjoy truly authentic matcha tea.
Today’s cup was skillfully prepared by Daisuke Nakamura. As said at tea ceremonies, I praised him: “It was very delicious.”
Grand Cru Café Ginza on the 13th floor is a coffee specialty store produced by Yoshiaki Kawashima, founder of Micafeto and renowned “coffee hunter.” The store feels like an elegant French restaurant. But it’s actually what might be called an extreme coffee salon, the likes of which is to be found nowhere else. I met Mr. Kawashima when he appeared on the NHK BS1 program “El Mundo,” where I was once a regular, and this café is the embodiment of his belief that coffee can be enjoyed just like fine wine.
The very finest coffee beans rigorously selected from around the world are roasted, then bottled in one bottle at a time, like champagne. Guests purchase the bottle they prefer, as at a wine bar, and have the coffee brewed.
The coffee beans are placed in bottles (like champagne) to seal in the carbon dioxide given off by the beans. That’s because the carbon dioxide contains the distinctive coffee aroma and freshness. When the bottle is opened in front of the guest, there’s a pleasant popping sound, and the aromatic scent of freshly roasted coffee beans fills the air soon afterward. It’s a pleasure to be found only here.
The coffee is drip-brewed one cup at a time right in front of the guest. Today, my cup is skillfully prepared by principal coffee evangelist Toshiki Masaki. The amount is carefully measured out, and the coffee is drip-brewed with water heated to a precise 87 degrees. This, too, is a delight for the senses.
Today, I chose Kotowa Rio Cristal Geisha Burgundy Natural coffee beans from Panama. This coffee has a fruity, berry aroma that recalls a Grand Cru Burgundy wine, just as how Mr. Kawashima constantly refers to coffee as fruity. It strikes the palate in a very pleasing way.
Almost all the coffee cups are one-of-a-kind Old Noritake cups and saucers. The experience of tasting coffee from such a special and invaluable vessel makes the experience that much more distinctive.
THE GRAND GINZA, also on the 13th floor, is a 1,653-square-meter space that incorporates everything from a lounge to a restaurant, banquet area, multipurpose hall, tea room, 12-seat chef’s counter, and bar, all based on the concept of a gathering spot for adults interested in Japanese food culture and the goal of providing all-encompassing hospitality.
I dined today in the VIP room, a kind of Japanese-style space I was surprised to find in the middle of Ginza. It is reservations-only, but if you pay the separate room charge, you can also enjoy the cuisine from the adjoining THE GRAND47.
THE GRAND47 showcases ingredients and cultures from Japan’s 47 prefectures as part of a constantly changing series of menus. The theme for today is Shikoku. Arranged to resemble the Naruto Strait, this appetizer consists of kobujime sea bream from Shikoku.
The main dish is seasonal, fresh-from-the-garden Shikoku bamboo shoots and Olive Beef on a gem-like plate.
The dessert is a version of the strawberry mille feuille recipe made famous by Maxim’s de Paris, which shuttered in 2015. Once known as the taste of Ginza, the recipe affectionately reproduced here has been handed down from the original first-generation patissier and that establishment’s head chef. No more than 20 of these desserts are made daily. Takeout orders are accepted.
Due partly to my experiment in looking out at the world with the eyes of a tea ceremony practitioner, I felt perfectly free to wander about wearing a kimono. I learned a great deal about GINZA SIX as an “art of life” space ideal for a day for a kimono-clad adult. An experience to treasure.
Text：Takanori Nakamura Photos：Kanako Noguchi Edit：Yuka Okada
Columnist. Writes and lectures broadly on fashion, gastronomy, travel, and lifestyle. Currently serves as Japan’s Chair in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy. Has attained the kendo rank of kyoshi nanadan. Tea ceremony instructor for Dainihon-Chado-Gakkai; author of “Famous Restaurant Recipe Pilgrimage and Training” (Seikaibunka Publishing); and coauthor of “The Cigar Life” (Hiromi Enterprise) and other titles.GINZASIX_OFFICIAL Instagram