GINZA SIX EDITORS
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In both house and shop, liquor makes a tour of GINZA SIX of the leading role A Highly Sake-Oriented Tour of GINZA SIX
GINZA SIX EDITORS VOL.36
Work of foods journalist thinking that it is true vocation heartily. It is sake to help loving while it is engaged in dainty food and excellent sake widely. Then, heading spontaneously naturally in GINZA SIX liquor shop "now and Ginza" in the depths under the ground on the second floor. We cannot count how many times opening is to have come now from the first. And place where attendant of liquor that I cannot help loving that we think that we like GINZA SIX can do shopping together. Let's guide while interlacing how to get along liquor for me this time.
At first "the Ginza flat green eaves" where what went sets up shop in the neighbor in now. Warehouse where there was main store in Kurashiki aesthetic area of Okayama, and the third generation of Morita brewing was built in the Taisho era in brewing ground in Shops. Good flavor of each places in "select Shops of meal" of the whole country and original product in a row. Only as for special dish which storekeeper, Shoichiro Morita tasted all with own tongue and the thing which there is, and does undecisiveness by height of even level. In looking for item which controls feeling that wants to perform adult purchasing saying "give all these shelves of!", and is correct to sake this time…….
Because of the profession, dinner meeting enters like every evening if not chased on the deadline of manuscript. After the return, it is such special dishes that is good when it became mode to want to drink sake a little more. "Liquor treasure akahira" (glamb selling) is Morita brewing original product which pickled karasumi which we made with cod or mullet to the purely U.S. sake lees. It slices thinly, and it just has, and it is recommended to pasta luxuriously to sharpen. "Butter sand of dry persimmon" of flat green eaves original (price including all less than \ 443/ tax) put on several folds and put together with heavy butter. And comfort that "dried fish of Kasumi crab" (972 yen) becomes liquor whether you put in the warming.
What pick up, and check seriously "crepe dressing" by "Obanzai tree irregularity" with star of Michelin in Hiroshima (821 yen). Live crepe of excellent soshimasan fully enters bottle and seems to totally swim. It is all-around dressing made with aged garlic soy and olive oil.
What took in hand in response to the name of "1,000 shop beef" unintentionally "Okayama Japanese beef bowl" (648 yen). This is always because it heard with exquisite brand beef which is not sold very much outside prefecture. "Taste Butadon" which formed a line in the neighbor (588 yen) is thing of Okayama in the same way. After having drunk liquor, is slightly deluxe; when close, and want to eat rice, is most suitable.
One book that "delicacy book of the flat green eaves" is in bookshelf of my home for nearly ten years. Delicious thing becomes more delicious when we know the background. In search of thing which we eat while turning this up and want to buy next and. It is guidebook recommended for person whom we are captivated by many products and work as.
As slight change of mind became vacant, and missed liquor soon, by elevator to the sixth floor. Shop where "Ginza Sanada SIX" spotlighted ingredients of Shinshu. Of stone mill and soba which pass through big noren, and are excellent beat, and advance to looking askance at in shop at place. It is in total approximately 100 seats at counter and table. He/she welcomes even if it comes aimlessly alone and is made to calm down.
In sitting down in the seat, and ordering liquor promptly. Sake is lineup with 13 kinds specialized in Shinshu like ingredients here, too. Nagano is area where there are many woman chief brewers (builder of sake) in prefecture in the whole country with many sake breweries in particular. We check menu, but watch recommendation when there is the detailed staff. The person feels like saying most at time, and being able to have thing which is in a state and is new one which we often discover.
"*kyu*hanasan*hon*zo" which seems to be delicious even if it makes warming to have had you recommend and fresh haze pure sake "sum sum sum (wawawa) purely particularly U.S. hitogokochi." At first in having from pure sake. Place that is glad that sake is available from glass (150cc), three quantity of 2 go (360cc) among small glasses (90cc). Please to feeling and situation at that time.
As for the first dishes, "miso is with assortment of Shinshu-producing vegetables"; (1,728 yen). It is completely non-chemical, and vegetables to stock from "the sky" of Ueda-shi where we were particular about form a line in a good manner, and two kinds of miso is attached. Soba miso, the left are miso the right in Daikan. Things which grew in dishes and liquor, the same land are good points of very natural affinity.
Successively "miso marinated grilled of Shinshu pork" (1,836 yen). We pickle the U.S. pork which eats rice, and grew up with Shinshu-miso for six hours. It is fully served, but eats up in taste in no time. We like normal temperature and warming to be mellow, and to blend with fat when we have meat dishes when we were able to enter entrance.
"100% Inaka soba" limited number of for tightening (1,296 yen). Taste that delicacy that this goes down in stone mill of shop and makes closing a bargain is deep. Soup does not have the corner than in front of well-defined Edo, and flavor of skipjack stock is made. Soba will match sake so much why and is slightly intoxicated comfortably. Is rare in Tokyo shipping directly from warehouseman; "Nakanori, particularly endure place where want to have another serving of pure rice"; and to the next shop.
One house which is little-known spot where the second-floor "St.Cousair wine&grocery" (St.Cousair wine and Grocery) under the ground can play both sampling of wine and the purchase.
At first to tasting counter in the depths. In having six kinds of all called all company production that, if you insist, it was done lineup on that day as this is the first time that we have wine of St.Cousair. White wine which we made with grape called Niagara is very refined with flavor similar to muscat. There is Nuance such as some sake, and "ZION" (Sion) seems to match various dishes.
Iizuna-machi may be called production center of apple, and cider is excellent, too. Furthermore, red wine adjusts to body straight, too. Make tasting here, and order wine which liked in bar of the neighborhood of entrance, and taste slowly and carefully;, too, and with bottle of purchasing, too. Tasting is to be able to do it, and it is system which it is very thankful for that can confirm taste of oneself preference. By the way, as for "St.Cousair Chardonnay neo-2000" in commemoration of the GINZASIX first anniversary (58,320 yen), it is released 12 limitation!
That it was St.Cousair which 56 stores (as of April, 2018) presented in the whole country, opening was pension to run in couples now. On the small hill of Iizuna-machi, Nagano, we seemed to build up winery, jam factory, restaurant, chapel afterwards. With lovely smile of story and manager, Haruka Morita of such a shop, liquor advances just carelessly.
In shop, Grocery matching liquor forms a line other than wine crowdedly. Original brand "Fuku Kuze store" has approximately 2,000 items of products which developed "the Japanese gourmet store" jointly in concept with proudhearted producers of the whole country. Substantial jam looks good to gift. When "dry Choshi sardine soaked in tomato oil from offing" and "dish simmered in plum forming a line at one corner of shelf of Choshi offing product sardine" stock, it seems to be useful as both side dish and dish. Besides, around 400 yen and conscientious price are nice.
Finally, in tightening with dessert. As a result of having been at a loss this and that at colorful gelato corner in entrance immediate place of shop, we order "sparkling gelato cider" which gelato of strawberry entered (540 yen). It is eloquence that is good in coming season.
GINZA SIX which we went round under the theme of liquor. We said that each places of the whole country, gourmets of the world gathered in Ginza, but were able to sense just the thing bodily. As far as what can taste national delicious thing is happy while being in Tokyo. Still, I run out no matter how much GINZA SIX where dainty food and excellent sake gather has time…….
Text: Yui Togawa Photos: Kazuhiro Fukumoto Edit: Yuka Okada
Food journalism is without question my calling. I know this to be true from the bottom of my heart. And while I encounter a wide range of wonderful food and adult beverages in my work, I’m especially fond of sake. So, at GINZA SIX, I naturally make a beeline to Imadeya Ginza, a liquor store located toward the back of the second belowground floor. I can’t count the number of times I’ve been here since it first opened. Something I treasure about GINZA SIX is that I can buy the sake I love along with the perfect snacks and finger food to go with that sake. I’ll introduce some of this wonderful fare to you today while mixing in my tips for enjoying sake and other beverages.
I head first to Ginza Heisuiken, next door to Imadeya. The flagship store, located in the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter in Okayama Prefecture, occupies a converted storehouse built in the Taisho period on the brewery grounds by the third-generation proprietor of the Morita Shuzo brewery. A select food shop, the store features carefully selected flavors from around the country, along with the store’s own products. All items are personally sampled by store manager Shoichiro Morita. The standard of quality here makes choosing hard. I want to say—Give me everything on the shelf!—but resist the impulse and decide instead to go foraging for items that would go especially well with sake.
Given the nature of my job, unless I have a deadline to meet, I’m out eating with other people just about every night. And when I get back home and want to drink just a bit more sake, these remarkable selections are just the thing. Shuho Akahira (sold by the gram) is a Morita Shuzo original consisting of dried cod or mullet roe pickled in pure rice sake lees. It’s wonderful simply sliced and eaten as is, but I also recommend grating it liberally over pasta. The Hoshigaki Butter Sandwich (443 yen; all prices listed with tax), a Heisuiken original, is multiple layers of dried persimmons bound in rich butter. The Kasumikani no Himono (972 yen) can be dipped in warmed sake, creating a wonderful crab-infused sake drink.
I pick up and carefully inspect the Chirimen Dressing (821 yen) from Obanzai Kimura, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Hiroshima. The jar is filled with freshly cooked and sun-dried baby sardines of the highest quality from Hashirijima; they appear almost to swim. It’s a versatile dressing made with aged garlic soy sauce and olive oil.
I see the Chiya beef name and instinctively pick up the Okayama Wagyudon (648 yen)—I’d heard this brand of exceptional beef is rarely available outside its home prefecture. The Ajibutadon (588 yen) next to it is from Okayama Prefecture, too. For those feeling self-indulgent, these are decadently ideal dishes to top off a night of drinking.
I’ve had a book titled Heisuiken no Umaimono Cho on my bookshelf for almost 10 years. I’ve found that reading about and learning more about delicious things makes them still more delicious. I consult this book all the time before and after eating out or when looking for that next thing to buy. It’s a book I recommend for those who, in the face of such plenty, might feel somewhat at a loss.
Sensing hunger stirring and thinking I’d like a drink as well, I head up the elevator to the sixth floor and to Ginza Sanada Six, a restaurant that focuses on food from the Shinshu region. I slip through the large noren curtain at the entrance and see, off to the side, a splendid millstone and soba-making area. Altogether, the counter and tables seat around 100 people. The warm greetings immediately set to rest any anxieties about venturing in alone.
I sit down and instantly order a drink. Not only known for its food, the restaurant offers 13 varieties of sake from the Shinshu region. Nagano Prefecture is known for its many sake breweries, and many of the chief brewers there happen to be women. I do review the menu, but with such a knowledgeable staff at hand, I usually ask for recommendations. I’ve always had a sense of perfect confidence that I’ll be presented with something ideal for me at the moment, and doing so often leads to new discoveries.
The recommendations I get on this occasion are for Sakunohana Yamahai Honjozo, which sounds like it’d also be great warmed, and Wawawa Tokubetsu Junmai Hitogokochi, a fresh, unpasteurized kasumi kizake. I start with the Wawawa. It’s great, too, that the sake is served in three sizes: a small glass (90 cc), a medium glass (150 cc), or the traditional ni go size (360 cc). Choose the size that’s right for your mood or situation at that time, then enjoy!
I start with the Shinshu Fresh Vegetable Plate with Miso (1,728 yen). The vegetables from Soraya in Ueda City, a supplier committed to completely pesticide-free cultivation, are tastefully arranged and garnished with two types of miso: buckwheat miso to the right and daikan miso to the left. There’s an ideal and natural affinity between food ingredients and sake from the same region.
The next dish is Grilled Miso-Marinated Shinshu Pork (1,836 yen). Rice-fed pork is marinated for six hours in Shinshu miso. The serving is ample, but it’s lip-smacking good, and I eat it all. Whenever I have meat, I prefer to drink sake warmed or at room temperature: The sake combines and melts with the fat from the meat in a blissful coalescence of textures and flavors.
To top it all off, I choose the limited-quantity 100% Inaka Soba (1,296 yen). The restaurant mills the buckwheat in-house on a millstone and makes the soba by hand, an approach that creates a deeply wholesome flavor. The dipping sauce incorporates bonito stock, whose crispness is less severe than the Tokyo style. The aroma is striking. I contemplate the perfection of sake paired with soba and realize I’m getting a touch tipsy. So, despite the desire for a glass of Nakanorisan Tokubetsu Junmai, shipped directly from the brewery and a rare find in Tokyo, I exercise a commendable restraint and head to my next stop.
The next stop is St.Cousair wine&grocery on the second belowground floor, a secret spot where you can both sample wine and shop for wine to bring back home.
I go first to the tasting counter in the back. It’s my first time trying St. Cousair wine, so I accept the offer of the staff member and decide to sample all six types of proprietary wines available that day. A refined bouquet that recalls Muscat lifts up from the white wine, which happens to be made from Niagara grapes. ZION offers subtle nuances similar to sake and would pair well with a wide variety of dishes. The Iizuna Town region also produces apples, and the cider is superb. I quickly take to the red wine, too. You can order the wine you taste here and more at the bar near the entrance, so take your time and enjoy and/or buy a bottle. Being able to taste the wine and figure out what you like is a welcome setup indeed. In passing, a limited bottling of St. Cousair Chardonnay neo-2000 (58,320 yen) commemorating the first anniversary of GINZA SIX is available: a whole 12 bottles!
St. Cousair, which currently operates 56 stores nationwide (as of April 2018), started with a vacation guest house managed by a husband and wife team. A winery, jam plant, restaurant, and chapel were subsequently built on a small hill in Iizuna Town, Nagano Prefecture. I continue to drink, listening to the story of the store and reassured by the friendly smile of store manager Haruka Morita.
Along with wine, the store is well stocked with food that make ideal companions for adult beverages. The store’s original brand, KUZE FUKU & Co., is based on a Japanese Gourmet Store concept, and the store carries some 2,000 items created jointly with proud producers throughout the country. One of the many jam products would make a great gift, I think. The Choshi-oki Sardines in Dried Tomato and Oil Marinade and Simmered Choshi-oki Sardines with Pickled Plum, which occupy one corner of a shelf, would be valuable to have in stock as a side dish or tippling snack fare. I’m happy to see they’re both very reasonably priced, around 400 yen.
I end my day with dessert. There’s colorful gelato available in an area next to the store entrance. After some dithering, I choose the Sparkling Gelato Cider (540 yen) with strawberry gelato, embodying a freshness perfect for the coming season.
Here, I conclude my adult beverage–themed tour of GINZA SIX. Ginza is renowned for drawing food lovers from around Japan and throughout the world, and it’s an aspect I experience vividly. There’s no end to the joy of living in Tokyo or of encountering in this city remarkable food and flavors from all over Japan. There’s never enough time for the plenty of gourmet food and fine adult beverages to be encountered at GINZA SIX.
Text：Yui Togawa Photos：Kazuhiro Fukumoto Edit：Yuka Okada
Yui TogawaFood journalist. Born in 1980. Writes widely on food-related topics, including restaurants, hotels, and alcoholic beverages, primarily for food and lifestyle magazines. A keen fan of sake and finds deep joy in spending time with sake and sake brewers. Customarily sets out wearing a kimono out of sense of respect for others.
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