GINZA SIX EDITORS
Fashion, jewelry & watch, lifestyle, beauty, foods…
Unique editors who are familiar with each genre GINZA SIX aimlessly
We spell way of enjoying that we found on foot.
The best of present sweets connecting edge by delicious surprise Making Connections with Delicious Surprises: The Essence of Sweets as Gifts
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.38
Silver bura area for me is floor of department store and commercial facilities under the ground exclusively. We swing B2F of GINZA SIX for present sweets today. At first to "orijinnu cacao." There was thing worried about this very moment.
Patisserie & chocolate Tolly whom pioneer of Japanese Chocolatier, chef Yukihiko Kawaguchi lead speaking of "orijinnu cacao." It spreads through tongue, and of course, pari, pom-pom chocolate making drunk in strength and fascinatedness of cacao and GINZA SIX-limited "terrine chocolate" which chocolate and fruit wait, and melts away (all 1,000 yen ※ lower than + tax price) is good thickly, but this baked confectionery is also particular. Baked confectionery has very good melting, too and eats as well as chocolate smoothly. That we reduce wheat flour and fully put almond poodle if we hear. Because it is said that new cake born of such a baked confectionery in commemoration of GINZA SIX anniversary appeared, we cannot overlook.
"Cake Osh Tron Ann Dalou" this it (1,800 yen). Because we mix crash lemon (thing which ground all lemon to skin) from Spain, it is one that moderate acidity can enjoy leather flavor bitter pleasantly enough of the lemon.
To present that new item of well-known store which is available only here satisfies one that is cake tsuu. Let's decide to take this when we gather with cake friend who always exchanges information.
To "Philip kontichini" favorite as for the next. World's best issue shop that it is shop of great master called "patissier which is the most innovative in the world", but leads Paris shop where, in fact, GINZA SIX opens in soon. In other words, it is point that we are glad only of thing which is available only here in Japan to present. We see way to friend's house of delicious curious person and think that I hate, by the way, which shall we do in?
After all shall we make this signature, "stake knee Tatung Co." (one 450 yen)? According to the name, it is original cake which is, and takes cousin, and did kouign amann and tart Tatung Co. When we had for the first time, eye-opening delicious shock ran with a thud. The surface of fascinating globe kouign amann is crunchy kyaramerize, and caramel gradually soaks into the inside of the cloth. Flavor that is Milky of fermented butter and taste of fragrant caramel overflow from the inside so as that compote of apple which begins to melt away arouses calm acidity and chews cloth which did Cali whip well. Cake which is this taking a lesson from the past lets you feel the real ability of French cake pressingly.
What float more like planet at this, store weekend (one 500 yen). As for that constant seller which is generally burnt with pound types into long pieces here in globe. Taste of powder and butter which appear in spite of being impact of form going away so as to savor if sticky is unforgettable.
"Want to eat this" "seem to like that place"……It is pleasure of selection of present that is at a loss this and that while imagining reaction of important person. When it was at a loss, it moves to counter once, and it is hand that ponder while making parfait breaks.
Normal parfait is good, too, but orders it this time as we had you make noted product "haute couture parfait" with friend to the people in the know just the other day. kontichini too deluxe one cup to create parfait only for oneself in front by oneself which visited Japan to base for preference of each person and taste of memory according to the name from Paris. We are made impromptu, but we are corrupted afterwards by recipe, and Takato of Japanese patissier reproduces for one year. Special feeling of haute couture only the person who had you make what you can order is heart tickled place.
That it is 18,000 yen (the later parfait order is 3,600 yen with drink) and quite good price to have kontichini create, but waiting list is filled up with person for this valuable experience immediately (announced to kontichini visit to Japan in SNS of shop). It seems to be Ginza that adults knowing the enjoyment of parfait gather.
Live feeling made up vividly in front is just like sushi bar. By the way, parfait only for friend and me is Mozzarella (thing which we tossed in salt with olive oil), crack to baked confectionery (cake of kontichini original where crispness is fun) and we put pudding, jasmine cream and are unprecedented constitution to put miso, stock gelee, unexpected sum material such as perilla ice together more.
That miso and stock raise taste in soft taste with a jerk faintly if we eat and that pudding is mellow and gathers all up. Because of the profession, we ate various sweets, but unknown taste that we did not make even imagination was right here until now. As for kontichini which is cook, border of cake and dishes is free without Japanese and Western fence for material trainer, too. When cake is thing pleasant thoroughly, for light approach to being delicious, parfait is feeling told again.
By the way. We derailed a little, but were thinking about present properly.
We decided to make "kurakkune" which entered parfait this time (3,000 yen with nine). Cake that this expressed "pleasure of texture" that kontichini arrived at in pursuit of taste for many years. Of all eight kinds including noisette, pisutashushitoron when is tasteful, and stuff the mouth, yamitchiri, dazzling texture including being high-strung begin to sound to fill the mouth a lot. As for the amplitude from simple appearance to have tranquility to surprise when we ate, it seems to be fun surprise to person who knew everything about delicious thing.
By the way, we cannot exclude "KUGENUMA SIMIZU" if we come to GINZA SIX.
Beckoning cat and sea bream, monaka which, besides, modelled seven kinds of mascots to four-leaf clover being pretty! As for the one of this, kind (skin) and bean jam become separate and are so-called "handicraft monaka" to put by oneself when we eat. So that when we sandwich and have length, Tokachi adzuki bean angatororino contrast gets sick whether fragrant crunch-crunch, too. We increase taste and pleasure to make by oneself visually and seemingly are with favorable reception for monaka and children who seem to be not closely related (in fact, our children fit in) or. From house where there is child to age, this seems to be liked toward the wide generation and is most suitable every celebration as it is happy motif. In addition, it is good for present toward foreign country.
Lively box "fortune" that paid seven kinds to openhearted present one by one (1,500 yen). In place that we want to do more properly, nito, scene such as photograph with wooden box (3,000 yen with ten) can use properly in total.
Furthermore, if give such a wonderful lapping; perfection (+100 yen). Feeling goes up one that having person gives markedly.
In fact, is shop created from this, French restaurant of Shonan, chef who in the first place is French why monaka? "Originally we used Japanese seasonal ingredients at restaurant. Saying there was always thinking to want to tell including Japanese splendid manners and customs as well as taste with Japanese old good thing; Shimizu of madam. Therefore it was monaka which could express symbol and that of seven happiness that did in future. It is lucky, and meaning to pray monaka of one one for happiness of partner is loaded condition called "Dharma" to be known to as mascot of vicissitudes of fortune with "gourd" which there is meaning of jowazawaimanekifuku and charm by form of increasing prosperity.
Because "present connects "border" with person and person." Most substantial silver buratonarimashita which takes heart of Japanese present culture to go on chest in both hands with good present.
Text: chico Photos: Kayoko Aoki Edit: Yuka Okada
My Ginza wanderings focus mainly on the belowground floors of department stores and retail complexes. Today, I’ll stroll around the second belowground floor of GINZA SIX, looking for sweets specifically to give as gifts. My first stop is Origines Cacao, where I know something I’m currently interested in waits.
Origines Cacao is a specialty chocolate and pastry shop spearheaded by Japanese chocolatier pioneer Yukihiko Kawaguchi. Crisp at the first bite, then thick and rich, the shop’s bonbon chocolates fill your mouth, offering up an intoxication of vigorous, bewitching qualities of cacao. The fruit and chocolate of the Terrine Chocolat (1,000 yen; all prices listed before tax), found only at GINZA SIX, melt together in a mellow richness. Both are delicious of course, but the shop’s pastries go above and beyond. Like the chocolates, the pastries melt in your mouth and go down easy. I’m told it’s because they’re loaded with almond flour and have less wheat flour than is typical. The pastries include a new cake created for GINZA SIX’s first anniversary, something you won’t want to miss.
It’s this Cake au Citron Andalou (1,800 yen). Crushed lemons (including the peel) from Spain are blended to allow full enjoyment of both the pleasant sourness of the lemon and the pleasingly bitter aroma of the peel.
This new creation of this renowned shop is available only here. It’s a gift that would swell the heart of even sweets connoisseurs. I meet regularly with a group of people to share information on sweets, and this is what I think I’ll bring the next time we meet.
Next, I head to PHILIPPE CONTICINI, a personal favorite. It’s the boutique and café of the French master patissier who’s been called the world’s most innovative. The GINZA SIX location is his very first anywhere, although a Paris location is set to open soon. In other words, the boutique is filled with things you’ll find only in Japan, a wonderful consideration when giving a gift. I’m thinking of bringing something from here as a gift when I visit a friend of mine who loves delicious things. What I should I get?
Yes, I think I’ll go with the boutique’s signature Kouign Tatin (450 yen each). As the name should tell you, it’s an original pastry that combines the best aspects of kouign-amann and tarte tatin. The first time I tried one, the astonishing delectability snapped me wide awake. The surface of the glistening, spherical kouign-amann is crisply caramelized; the caramel reaches slowly into the interior of the cake. From the middle, the syrupy apple compote generates a subtle sourness. Bite into the crisp, then chewy dough, and it overflows with the milky flavors of cultured butter and sweet, savory caramel. In this new take on tradition, I clearly sense the hidden potency of traditional French confectionery.
There’s something else here floating in the boutique like a planet: Weekend (500 yen each). Again, a standard rectangular cake like a pound cake is presented as a sphere. The form itself is impactful. The powder and butter flavors that emerge when you bite into the springy texture are unforgettable. “I want her to try that…but I bet she’d like this as well…” Going back and forth while imagining the reaction of someone important in your life is one of the joys of choosing a gift. If you can’t decide, you could go to the counter, take a break, enjoy a parfait, and think it over.
The regular parfaits are good. But just a few days ago, my friend and I had a Haute Couture Parfait, known to those in the know, created for us. That’s what I plan to order here today. As the name suggests, it’s the luxury of luxuries: Mr. Conticini himself, who’s traveled to Japan from Paris, makes an original parfait just for you, right before your eyes, based on flavors you personally like or have fond memories of. The parfait is an improvisation, but it’s distilled into a recipe afterwards. For one whole year, it’s there to be recreated for you by Japanese patissier Takato-san. You’re the only person in a position to order the parfait made expressly for you by Mr. Conticini. The sense of distinction conferred by the Haute Couture Parfait is quite flattering.
Having Mr. Conticini make you your very own parfait isn’t cheap; it’s 18,000 yen (recreations cost 3,600 yen and include a beverage). But I’m told the waiting list fills up immediately with people who crave this experience. Mr. Conticini’s visits to Japan are announced on the boutique’s social media pages. Adults aware of the pleasures of parfaits gathering together in one place seems very Ginza, doesn’t it?
A parfait skillfully created before your eyes, in a live performance, as it were, could be likened to a sushi bar. Incidentally, the parfait for my friend and me is a never-before-seen configuration of mozzarella cheese (with salt and olive oil) on a baked confection, Craquounet (a crispy, original confection from Mr. Conticini), pudding, jasmine cream and other ingredients combined with wholly unexpected Japanese ingredients, miso, soup stock (dashi) jelly, and shiso ice cream.
Tasting this, one spies within the mild and gentle flavors the umami notes appealingly accentuated by the miso and dashi. It’s all bound together into a harmonious whole by the pudding. I’ve eaten my share of sweets on account of my job, but this is delicious in ways I couldn’t have foreseen. A chef as well, Mr. Conticini draws no lines between ingredients used for confections and those for cuisine, nor between Japan and the West. His lighthearted approach to ambrosial concoctions reminds me once again of the joy that parfaits and sweets bring, through and through.
OK, I’ve gotten off track a bit. But I’ve been thinking about gifts, too.
This time, I go with the Craquounet (box of nine; 3,000 yen), which also made an appearance in my parfait. Craquounet expresses the joy in texture at which Mr. Conticini has arrived at after many years in the pursuit of startling flavors. All eight varieties are in the box, including hazelnut and pistachio citron. Taste one; a dazzling array of textures sally forth across your palate and teeth, crunchy, thick, crispy, and more. The pendulum swing from the simple and tranquil presentation to the astonishment of placing one in your mouth is sure to be a surprise and a delight, especially for those who really appreciate fabulous sweets.
If you come to GINZA SIX, by the way, I suggest not missing out on KUGENUMA SIMIZU.
Here are seven adorable varieties of monaka (adzuki bean-jam filling sandwiched between wafers) in lucky shapes: a beckoning cat, tai (sea bream), and a four-leaf clover. The wafers and adzuki bean-jam filling are separately served; you bring them together yourself as you eat them, thus the name “Otezukuri Monaka” (Handmade Monaka). In biting into one just made in this way, I register the rich Tokachi adzuki bean jam and fragrant, crispy wafer, a contrast that’s sure to leave you longing for more. Along with the taste and appearance, there’s also the fun of making this yourself. I’m certain they’re a delight for kids, who would rarely opt for monaka as snack; in fact, my own children love them. They’re made to delight a wide range of ages, from children to seniors. The auspicious forms make them perfect for celebrations. They’re ideal gifts for people from other countries, too.
The merry Fuku box (1,500 yen) with one of each of the seven varieties, makes a wonderful, unassuming gift. For a more formal feel, they’re also available in a wooden box (set of 10; 3,000 yen), shown in the photo. Choose one or the other, based on your situation.
Having it wrapped in this great wrapping paper makes it perfect (+100 yen). Anyone receiving or giving this gift is going to feel uplifted.
This store is actually a spinoff of a French restaurant in the Shonan area. How does a French chef get involved in monaka? “The restaurant had long used seasonal Japanese ingredients,” says Madame Shimizu. “We’re always wanting to have people learn about the good things Japan traditionally offers—not just flavors, but Japan’s wonderful customs, too.” They focused on seven symbols of good fortune, and monaka made the cut. Gourds with a shape that widens toward the bottom are known to be good luck charms that ward off calamities and evil spirits. The Daruma doll is a familiar talisman of pluck and perseverance in the face of life’s vicissitudes—fall down seven times, get up eight—so each of the monaka contains a wish for the happiness of the person receiving it.
“Because a gift is something that creates a connection between two people.” A good gift in each hand, I go home with Japan’s gift-giving culture in my heart. There’s no more enriching way to wander Ginza.
Text：chico Photos：Kayoko Aoki Edit：Yuka Okada
chicoWriter on sweets. Intimately familiar with the latest trends in sweets, she’s involved in planning, supervising, and commenting in magazines, online, and on TV. Her regular columns include “chico’s Sweet Treasures” in anan (Magazine House) and “Sweets as Delightful Gifts” in SALUS. Oversees the book series Finding Truly Delicious Sweets in Tokyo (Gap Japan) and co-author of The Best Patisserie in Tokyo (PIA) and other publications.
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