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Want to eat taste of picnic France in GINZA SIX The Flavors of France: A Picnic at GINZA SIX
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.39
We have lived in France before and still want to eat thing of taste of France intermittently. It is related with having eaten bread in France very much that I was awakened to bread. Baguette was too delicious, and it often happened that we ate in one (one of France is longer than Japan, and there are around 60 centimeters) one all too soon exhaustively.
And we wanted to eat thing of taste of France again when thinking about GINZA SIX this time. Of course we do not think abruptly, and such a thing is reason why is because we know that we sell bread using French product wheat flour in underground "le Boulanger do Monge."
Well, then this "bura editors" will feature the theme of France.
We buy in various ways and collect things tasting French in the bread center and go on a picnic in the roof.
We have ambition that gluttony set this up and swing GINZA SIX.
At first, in "#0107 PLAZA (adult plaza) where we dropped in at to buy cross necessary for picnic," we discover tablecloth (price all as follows tax-excluded 1,800 yen ※) of marimekko. Cute cutting board (3,500 yen) of the things was found because of bread.
A lot of jam and canned foods which seem to become attendant of bread sell. With porcini paste truffle of Rossini that eyes were attracted above all (2,500 yen). We buy this luxury aura immediately when it will be absolutely good pattern and are decided.
Still, which "a, this are pretty" "does not have a cute this" when we swing #0107 PLAZA But, we are found a lot. We will keep that we run in heart to remember that it is birthday of somebody by notice of FB, and to buy present suddenly though it often occurs when you should run in such a case in #0107 PLAZA.
We step to B2F to finally buy food.
Though it was considerably attracted on bread called bread de mimonju (503 yen) which swelled out on nyokinyokito in "le Boulanger do Monge", it is not today's theme, French product wheat. Most popular baguette Monge is with wheat flour from France. When try, is eaten every morning; is light; ate, and, in mouth, obvious taste of France was blurred.
But polka (670 yen / half) that we were thinking that it was not this to black truffle and discovered. We say so that there is more than an armful with sea cucumber type. Bread with wheat flour which let you ferment using ruvan class like Campagne from France. It will be ideal for thing with thick flavor such as truffle. It became mouth-watering without thinking that we imagined that we painted with truffle paste and ate.
The neighbor is boo orchid Julie, Jean Francois. "Viennoiserie Jean Francois" that products which spun off croissant which is drawing card product are varied is new business condition for GINZA SIX.
By the way, Jean Francois opened a store for the first time in Japan; it is croissant Francois to like me from the first. Texture that form that we wound up in ribbon type was stylish, but did above all French one a lot. This croissant is because we can make the class of one thicker than range of Japanese croissant being delicate thinly.
Popular one W cheesecake Danish (380 yen). Kamakura is all right, and white dome of cheese appears on the croissant dough. This is whetted.
We purchase with favorite croissant and Danish french toast (340 yen) hot from the oven.
To store specializing in honey "L'Abeille" which honey of all the countries of the world was put successively. In honey which confined aroma of truffle and ingredients such as cognac, it is Acacia and honey according to plant such as side. For selection of lining best part, we always get out and get out and are thrilled.
We look by restriction in France today. It is attractive to make tasting without regret. All kinds try French honey. Rosemary has flavor of rosemary, and there is complicated flavor as being heavy than Japanese it to Acacia.
We purchase lavender (2,100 yen /125g) from France on that day. After flavor similar to leaf of cherry tree to use for cherry tree bean-jam bun and sakuramochi, flavor of lavender runs through. It is fragrance to totally eat.
We were attracted afterwards by "10FACTORY" though we had nothing to do with France when we walked floor aimlessly more. Shop which presents artefact of mandarin orange which farmhouse of Ehime produced by oneself.
I that quite French, deluxe how to eat to add jam to croissant is unparalleled and likes. Both acidity and flavor choose jam (843 yen) of kawanaibankan to be stronger to match with croissant of Jean Francois.
It was whetted from picnic badly by mandarin orange gelato (324 yen) sold in derailment, shop and ate on the spot. It is topping with mandarin orange which is particularly dry on recommendation of shop on the top. Sportscar mitainigyuinto acceleration that flavor of mandarin orange totally carried turbocharger on board. Chilly mandarin orange Festival in front of the history of oneself sky was held in mouth. It will be how delicious if we eat this on brioche. We bear in our mind in list of TO DO of heart well to come true by all means sometime.
Finally drink is necessary, too. Of course France is wine. But we sell appetizing grape juice to "wine shop Enoteca" if we think that we do face red-hot from the day to be that we are in trouble!
It is special dish of alane Miria using grape for wine in French producer. To beautiful Chardonnay which was amber, we purchase quite solid color aino merlot while receiving explanation of resident sommelier (together 800 yen).
The extensive sky was waiting when we went on the roof on elevator at a stretch from basement.
We go on a picnic in the middle of Ginza. You open cross, and display war trophies on the top.
It is grape juice gubiri in dry throat. Grape to open to spend sweetness, chilly liquid throat, and to overflow, and to run up from mouth to nose. He/she takes to France only with flavor.
Only opened bottle, and is violent; truffle, truffle, truffle. Apply paste on polka without saving both arrow and shield, and gaburi. It is not only truffle. Dreadful becoming conspicuous of taste such as flavor, anchovy of porcini. Breast depth of taste that is Mine rally of wheat confronting it from France. Still, flavor of truffle is too thick and we follow around the nose forever and do not leave.
Pleasant feeling to make a sound energetically, and to chew croissant, and to break. We applied sakitchonoichibambaribarishiteirutokoroni, mandarin orange jam, and, as for Nuance of bright sweetness, thud of flavor of peel was correct with a feeling of butter of croissant though it was slightly different from French it.
We bought french toast, this to combine with honey. Yellow surface hetarari where scooped honey, and ached from sweet liquid with great relish. We go to meet with mouth not to hang down and crib. When flavor of funyaritoshite milk and egg spread, different memory of France started again. It is bread depisu where we fully used honey of lavender which we bought in store specializing in honey of Paris for.
One chuckles to himself/herself while stuffing the mouth with W cheesecake Danish. We go on a picnic in Ginza and succeed and succeed.
We are particular about me who swelled of gluttony to buy bread hot from the oven, and to take home carefully to house. We share picnic with friend and can try various bread. When french toast is W cheesecake Danish of cold storage required while we are madly in love, there is totally no problem because we are eaten immediately.
We think some other time. When fun of bread is encounter. We are slightly lonely only with bread. Jam and paste and honey and juice. We let various things come and can customize by oneself. New taste is born there.
But, oneself alone, which are you wondering whether to have? That reminds me I was able to have precise opinion to the staff anywhere today in shop which I visited. We thought that it was safeness of GINZA SIX that there was professional of the way with own words.
Text: Hiroaki Ikeda Photos: Shizuka Suzuki Edit: Yuka Okada
I lived in France for a while, and every now and then, I find myself longing for its flavors. My personal bread awakening has a lot to do with my encounters with bread in France. The baguettes are just too delicious. Once I began biting into them, I ended up eating them at some point in their entirety all by myself (they’re around 60 cm in France, longer than the baguettes in Japan). That happened a fair number of times.
In thinking about GINZA SIX for this article, I again found myself wanting to experience the flavors of France. Of course, this didn’t just drop out of the blue. It’s partly because I know Le Boulanger de Monge on the belowground floor sells breads made with French flour.
That’s ideal: I’ll just make France my theme for this Ginza Editors piece. I’ll buy various items with the flavors of France, bread or other things that go well with bread, and have a picnic on the rooftop. So, with such gluttonous designs, I’m off to wander GINZA SIX.
I’ll need a tablecloth for my picnic, so I first stop by #0107 PLAZA and find a Marimekko tablecloth (1,800 yen; all prices listed before tax). And I find something typically encountered alongside bread, an attractive, appealing cutting board (3,500 yen).
The store also sells a large assortment of jams and canned goods that would go companionably with bread. This Tartufata Rossini, porcini mushroom paste with truffles (2,500 yen), for example, caught my eye. I snap it up after deciding its aura of luxury augurs exquisite flavor.
If you wander around #0107 PLAZA, you’ll find a lot of things that make you think, “Oh, that’s interesting!” or “Wow, isn’t that cute?” Facebook often reminds me it’s someone’s birthday, and I’ll dash out to buy a present. I make a mental note that running to #0107 PLAZA would be a good idea.
Now it’s time to go buy some food, so I proceed to the second belowground floor. At Le Boulanger de Monge, I’m almost enticed by the Pain de Mie Monge (503 yen) and its puffy top. But it’s not made with French flour, my theme for the day. The most popular item is the Baguette Monge, a bread made with French flour. On sampling some, I find this light bread, ideal everyday breakfast fare, discloses the unmistakable notes of an authentic French flavor.
But in the midst of wondering if it would go with black truffles, I find the Polka (670 yen for a half loaf). It’s big, shaped like a sea cucumber, and practically spills out of your arms. It’s made with French flour leavened like pain de campagne—French sourdough. It’d be perfect for something with the pungent aroma of truffles. It’s almost mouth-watering to imagine setting a table in my mind with this and truffle paste.
Right next door is Viennoiserie JEAN FRANCOIS, a new format for GINZA SIX of Boulangerie Jean Francois, known for its many items derived from the croissant, its signature product.
I’ve loved the Croissant Francois since its first shop opened in Japan. The shape itself, wrapped in a ribbon, is remarkably elegant, and the crunchy texture within is very French, a quality attributable to the thick layers of this croissant compared to the croissants you encounter in Japan, which tend to have thin, delicate layers.
The viennoiserie is known for its Double Cheese Cake Danish (380 yen). This features a white dome of cheese, like a snow hut, on top of the croissant bread. It’s tantalizing! I buy one to accompany that favorite croissant of mine and a fresh-baked Danish French Toast (340 yen).
Next, I go to L’ABEILLE, a retailer specializing in honey from all around the world. The store offers honeys into whose aroma textures are interwoven truffles, Cognac, and other ingredients, as well as honeys from specific plants like acacia and buckwheat. The spectacular and well-organized selection always leaves me awestruck.
The focus of my search today is France. Quite generously, the store lets you sample the various honeys. I end up trying all the varieties from France. Rosemary features the aroma of rosemary; Acacia has a complex aroma more substantial than Japanese varieties. Today, I get the made-in-France Lavender (2,100 yen/125 g), which offers up aromas like the cherry leaves used in certain bean jelly breads and rice cakes, swiftly followed by a burst of lavender. It’s a fragrance you can eat.
I continue my wanderings on the same floor and find myself drawn to 10FACTORY, a store with no particular connections to France. It’s a store that develops processed citrus products from mikan oranges grown by farmers in Ehime Prefecture.
The extravagance of jam on a croissant is a very French approach to food, one I dearly love. To pair with my croissant from JEAN FRANCOIS, I choose the acidic, flavorful Kawachi-Bankan Jam (843 yen).
Breaking from the picnic theme, I find myself tantalized by the mikan sherbet (324 yen) sold in this store, and I eat it right there. On the recommendation of the staff member, I add dried mikan as a special topping. The mikan aroma accelerates rapidly, like fireworks, and a brief but unprecedented chilled mikan festival flares across my palate. How delicious would it be to put some on brioche and eat it?!? It’s something I register on my internal to-do list as something to try.
Lastly, I need something to drink. Since the theme is France, it has to be wine. But I don’t want my face turning bright red midday. Does Wine Shop Enoteca stock grape juice?
It does, a wonderful Alain Milliat made from wine grapes from the French producer. I take in the lovingly detailed account provided by the sommelier, who is always stationed, and pick up a beautiful amber Chardonnay and a Merlot of impressively deep ruby (800 yen each).
I take the elevator all the way up from belowground to the roof, where the open sky awaits, and enjoy a picnic in the middle of Ginza. I spread out the tablecloth and set out the spoils. I gulp my grape juice. The sweet and cool liquid goes down smoothly to appease my thirst, and the flavor of the grapes rushes up, like artesian water, to my nose. The aroma alone takes me back to France.
I open the jar and truffles, truffles, truffles—in a moment truffles fill the air. Impatiently, I smear the paste on the Polka and take a bite. It’s not just truffles—the aroma of porcini, the flavor of anchovies, and more—an awe-inspiring richness of flavors. Holding its own against all this is the foundational mineral flavor of the French flour. But the aroma of the truffles is deep and rich and lingers about my nose.
It feels wonderful to hear the crunch as I bite off a piece of the croissant. I apply the mikan jam to the end where it’s crunchiest. The bright and nuanced sweetness isn’t quite what I recall from France, but the earthy aroma of the peel goes well with the croissant’s buttery sensations.
I bought the French toast to go with the honey. I scoop out some and dribble it over the golden surface, infused with the sweet delicious sauce. I bring it to my mouth, careful to avoid spilling a drop or crumb, and take a bite. As the milk and egg flavors come gently into focus, another memory of France returns: pain d’épices (“spice bread”), which I remember slathering with lavender honey from a Parisian honey retailer.
I fill my mouth with the Double Cheese Cake Danish and chuckle and congratulate myself on the extraordinary success of my Ginza picnic.
Buying fresh-baked bread and bringing it all the way back home is a challenge for a glutton like me. But a picnic with friends is the perfect setup for trying lots of different breads. Eat the French toast while it’s hot and inhale the “keep refrigerated” Double Cheese Cake Danish while it’s pleasingly cool.
I’m reminded once again that it’s encounters like this that make bread so interesting. Bread alone feels a little lonely and at loose ends. So you add jam; paste; honey; juice. You bring various things together and fashion a meal. The effort summons forth new and lovely flavors.
On my own, I go back and forth on what to get. Come to think of it, all the stores I visited today are attended by helpful staff members, who provided remarkably trustworthy opinions. Having professionals with their own views and the ability to express them is one of the profound strengths of GINZA SIX.
Text：Hiroaki Ikeda Photos：Shizuka Suzuki Edit：Yuka Okada
Hiroaki IkedaHead honcho at Panlabo with a professed obsession for all things related to bread. Chairperson of the nonprofit Shinmugi Collection Crisscrosses Japan sampling bread and taking in the words of bakers and wheat farmers. Recent publications include This Bread is Amazing! All Across Japan (Asahi Shimbun Publications); Bread Manga 2: The Wandering Mr. Croque-Monsieur (Guideworks; co-authored with Michihiro Hori); Sandwicherie Imaginaire (Guideworks; co-authored with Itsunari Nishiyama); and Pain-thology (Heibonsha). Pens the regular columns “Community Bakeries” for the magazine Hanako and “This Bread is Amazing!” for Asahi Shimbun Digital & w. (http://www.asahi.com/and_w/konopan_list.html). Twitter → @panlabo
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