Ginza HEISUIKEN Morita storekeeper is Vol.19 by seasonal news impressed deeply with to table
White autumn: We watch season rotating to dead leaf Kazuha
panchietta sutajionata pikante
France is known as country of the best dainty food in Europe. Study is inquired into for stack history, and history of meat culture is proud of refined superb technique in that. Technique made with meat product cultivated during long history brought up specialized craftsman called sharukyutie. On the other hand, Japanese carnivorous culture cannot but be still officially called underdeveloped country about eating meat with thing (we seem to have had carnivorous custom on the pretence of eating animals flesh for nourishment before that) after the Meiji era.
Japanese inherent Japanese dishes-style is spreading through the world now, but thinks that attempt that takes meat as material in that before long will be done. It will be that our dining table gradually changes accordingly.
It is rare aged raw bacon called panchietta sutajionata pikante that introduces this time. There is studio where is specialized in meat processing named "kyurunonchue" in halfway up a mountain of the mountains of Kiyomicho, Gifu. Flavor of smoked clothing product hung in shop by ceiling such as atelier representing picture is totally fragrant really beautiful studio. (very unfortunately we died approximately six years ago) that it was man called Junji Yamaoka that made this is run now in pupils whom Yamaoka brought up.
Yamaoka was people in technique skin which qualifications racer had by No. 1 business of Porsche sale in Japan originally, but we threw out at the age of 56 conventional bright career and we crossed alone in France and studied in smoking studio of Jura mountainous district (Comte district) morutoo for three years and took qualifications of sharukyutie and we returned to Japan and opened studio in Kiyomicho. Meat artefact which Yamaoka made was not arranged in a Japanese style, and expressed traditional taste of local Comte district tight; full-scale.
There were many craftsmen who added seasoning of the sum, and did, and did how to make own ways, but usually aimed at Yamaoka reproducing taste local as cancer faithfully when that ignored French food culture.
"Tradition was said to be" which survived in border, but taste of the birthplace should change a little with the times, but the will of the deceased of Yamaoka would be carried out if taste of France Comte district remained in Japanese Kiyomicho in original form. Joining hands.
As this panchietta is half-dried, you must not let fire. We have various uses. For example, we use for topping of salad which engraves into carbonara finely, and can enter, but, after all, we warm up baguette most simply and pick up on the top. Fat soaks by residual heat of bread properly and is the completion of good-quality delicious antipasuta which is fragrant, and is very rich.
Capacity: 101 g
Price: 1,372 yen (tax-included)
kon wild boar (corned beef of wild boar)
Season when gibier was delicious came this year. It is said to be three months from November to January that thing of field is really delicious.
We save fat in health, and therefore we can taste wild good flavor, but we correct, and there is a little worried part without hit or miss tidy standard a lot to spend winter when they are strict as it is strong meat of habit.
For example, if it is wild boar, method of capture shot with gun, or taste varies by trap collecting extremely.
As we cut blood vessel, blood turns around and bad-smelling, but is strongly never suitable for the public to shoot with shot in the case of gun. On the other hand, blood does not turn around, but it is strong stressful one, and the influence appears over time when we catch by trap. Therefore we cannot meet high quality thing where you caught who caught the wild boar whether method that we caught is male or is female, or it was stuff of around several years old if we do not catch such an information precisely. Deer is similar, and there is no relation in chance to come across meat of wonderful quality.
Sugao Nana making this kon wild boar knows the neighborhood enough. She worked for local butcher shop over France at time in its twenties and learned technique of meat processing. It was called sharukyutie, and, in France, craftsman of meat processing did severe study and took qualifications, but she seemed to take with an effort qualifications, but the word sharukyutiere of woman noun was story that it was possible for for her as there was not craftsman of woman in those days in France either.
We are doing restaurant now using mountain hut-style mountain cottage in halfway up a mountain of mountain where it completely needs reservations as shop and husband of French side dish mainly on meat called trio club are French chefs in Okayama. This restaurant is thing of relation (overwhelmed in kitchen in the inside in particular).
As a lot of eyes are reliable, acquaintance of local hunter chooses delicious wild boar, deer, wild duck, too, and Sugao Nana creates by himself/herself. We think in particular that roast ham which she makes is the result that is distinguished for taste of meat densely at the full blast. Saying was visited in shop the other day, and "saw such a thing product"; at this time corned beef (whether is this slightly strange?) of wild boar of introduction This was brought, but it was decided that this handled with thing of the good result promptly again. As answer "result ruyo" came back like place that we asked as I am interested in gibier, and I like rillettes in particular saying "rillettes of wild boar is squid which is the result", master of "the middle of the night dining room" which Kaoru Kobayashi plays at all, we are looking forward to now.
Grease soaks into bread when we just put kon wild boar on bread hot from the oven and is really delicious, but is taste of preeminence when we cut part of core of Cabetsu and fry together.
Inner capacity: 70 g
Price: 864 yen (tax-included)
Under store, order for telephone acceptance
We take Kurashiki store from the following