Ginza HEISUIKEN Morita storekeeper is Vol.20 to dining table by seasonal news impressed deeply with
GINZA HEISUIKEN
Food
Winter: We feel the winter arrival to frost column which breaks if crunchy in step
Dried mouth child
Name has heard dried mouth child, but thinks that around 80% of saying that we do not know at all which we have not eaten may come. It is also called bachiko (form is similar to drumstick of samisen) with this child, but we dried the ovary of sea cucumber which is winter feast, and are delicacy of the highest grade in the very valuable depth of winters.
As it is from January of cold winter to March in the breeding season of sea cucumber, we collect the ovaries of the last female sea cucumber, and craftsman making a specialty of makes. We swell and hang the orange ovary bright there and spend time by dry in the shade slowly and carefully and dry one numb winter cold rope thread thin in the morning. We are very particular about timing of dried advance, and it seems to be art that some softness stops in remaining, but it is strange, and it is not who thought about ko etemirutoyokumomaakonnamonoo. However, it is right expensive dish as there seems to be sea cucumber of ten several kilos to make one piece of dried mouth child.
Most of the made dried mouth children are used in restaurant of Kanazawa. Banquet begins, and small brazier that beautiful Kozukue and bincho charcoal one entered the center of room comes out in a few minutes. And parlormaid provides thing which warmed mouth child whom proprietress of that restaurant tore into long pieces quickly before visitor quietly. This seems to be custom of Kanazawa from old days, and it is said that it is proof of the best service when we receive this reception. It would be pleasure of the samurai and master people again that could taste very dramatic party.
In fact, dried mouth child whom we treat is made by sea cucumber produced in the sea of Bizen of Okayama. Because we cannot go for relation fishing as the winter Sea of Japan is stormy, it is that it is hard to get sea cucumber and uses thing of relatively calm Setouchi. Because the sea in Mushiake, Okayama in particular is sand mud flat, and high quality sea cucumber is produced, mouth child, these innards are made flourishingly, but will never be sold in hometown. All the made mouth children are sent to Kanazawa.
When I ate mouth child first, we were surprised with anything.
It was strange story, but seemed to totally eat the sea itself. Although flavor of the tide which spread in mouth was severe, it was thought as *zen to present from the sea of abundant harvest (we think whether some this neighborhood are one of Oka chinquapin myself).
However, article was hard to enter relation hand and investigated various grapevines, and Bizen marine products of Mushiake traced, and they were accompanied. When we just got nervous from fishing when I visited, it was place that tore sea cucumber, and collected these innards, but around one adopted thing such as surprisingly bright orange lump to tree pail to 10.
As "and the master said whether you ate, we ate the fearfully orange lump, but" this was straight mouth child when it would think now. Straight mouth child varying in dried shitoha was particular taste again, but this seems to be rare thing which we can eat only at production center.
We were able to treat somehow that he/she distributes a little as a result of strenuous negotiations, but are not popular particularly. "This is head of dried cuttlefish, or person to see this seems to think with" for the first time, but when there is mouth child in such a place whether it is one of dozens of, we grasp well and can come to cash register. It is returned with smile that expectation is full when we explain that it is various.
Mouth child warms by high flame of distant fire only a little and eats (but you must never warm too much. Become slightly hot, and please leave;). Or it is taste to be very delicious, and to exceed fins liquor of globefish when we put in the warming sake of sake.
How about relaxing for these New Year holidays, and tasting mouth child liquor that the world is delicious?
Inner capacity: One piece
Price: 3,780 yen (tax-included)
Beef tongue stew
These three beef tongue stew is bought with four while being able to sleep because "this is delicious, and saying that it is the end of the year as for our regular customers who can always come with". He/she will think that a little is with luxury because it is annual New Year holidays.
We think that it is very good thing that makes distinction in everyday life like that.
It is Masahiro Yokoyama of the well-established restaurant "beach product" fourth generation of Okayama that cooks this beef tongue stew.
As Yokoyama is person of ability quite, restaurant, the fourth floor run grilling foods on an iron plate and multi-multilayer building Western food restaurant, the third floor waiting for, the second floor the first floor, but originally from shop specialized in fish the third generation of Kyoto performed in ascetic practices in long-established store restaurant "Beach product" super, and seemed to open keoshitemorai "Okayama Beach product" for noren. We trained ourselves, and the person made shop of grilled with "out of" Kanada of Japanese food and "Imahan" of sukiyaki in one's youth on the fourth floor of building, too.
As Japanese dishes materials go up his shop from the third-floor restaurant, we make semi-Western style at all unusual menus. Price is good price, and relation cannot go when it is not reception or memorial day, but right provides gorgeousness, splendid original dishes filled with senses of the seasons.
We put this beef tongue stew in the small copper pot and provided for sense of small appetizer once while boiling with gutsugutsu, but demiglace sauce of this stew was really delicious. We demanded refill from excessive taste, but "delicious thing was declined with" which there should be little flatly.
He is man of incurable craftsman spirit, but becomes all my younger student in really poor thing with junior high school, high school, university.
It was our school, and, as for the senior, "you let you do the second dish concerning dan rukotohadekinaiyonaa -" by my request possibly as God, younger student were garbage and he/she put this" stewed tongue in my shop besides and pushed "and asking the impossible. As unreasonableness strangely knew fist and thing that we wrote as for the character called younger student well as he was man who played an active part in yacht club of body ream in college student days, we had a look called doomsday and understood. Stewed tongue of Okayama Beach product would equal my HEISUIKEN in this way.
Big tongue contains two pieces and sauce to this stewed tongue, but thinks that others should not be able to enter too much. Please thoroughly enjoy thick-sliced tongue and good flavor sauce which are soft to be able to enter to color broccoli or asparagus, and to melt which you boiled to the utmost.
Inner capacity: 200 g
Price: 1,944 yen (tax-included)
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