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My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.88
I like fashion shows. Over the past seven years, I have seen almost all of Paris and Milan's overseas men's collections, Pitti Imagine Womo, and the Tokyo collection. 250 bottles per year. He is a completely defile-poisoning patient. There are many opportunities to write a runway review, so it is often thought of as a goligori mode class, but I spent many sensible periods in the 1980s and 90s without intersecting with so-called designers brands. Both Antwerp Six and Maltan Margela were interested, but for me in my twenties, "the famous product known by European and Americans" in select Shops was more attractive.
In the early 2000s, I met a brand that included the intense aesthetic sense of "TOKITO" by Tokito Yoshida and "m's braque" by Takahiro Matsushita, and I became interested in the appeal of designer brands. Since then, the "movable range" of clothes selection has been expanded year by year, and it is no longer possible to completely fit. Hatachi Challenges the young domestic brand there, and there is still no eye on European and American items. In used clothes, he was very enthusiastic about the DC brand of the 1980s, which he once died but did not want to wear. Every year, there is a tight waist, but now I feel like I'm going to wear anything as I'm interested.
It is Yoji Yamamoto's clothes that such a broken Masuda has not yet passed the sleeves. The momentum of Mr. Yoji is really amazing. The number of men's shows in Paris is at most 250. At the entrance of the venue, there are many fans who do not have an incubation, and the surrounding area has a strange atmosphere. Sales have been very good both in the world and in Japan, and fans of the Millenniums have been exploding in recent years. I think that only Yoji and Kawakubo are designers who can make their grandchildren crazy. Considering his own parent generation, its existence is no longer close to God.
But Mr. Yoji's clothes are not something that suits everyone. Every season, I meet what I want to wear, but if I'm not good at wearing a brand as a whole, I can't just step on it.……I'm sorry. At that time, what came to my mind was the existence of "Ground Y". It is a brand that proposes genderless and ageless styles, so to speak, "Yoji who has descended on the ground (ground)". I've heard that there are many standard products. That's why I turned my foot on the 4th floor of GINZA SIX to find "My First yoji".
It's been a long time since I was so excited at the sales floor. I think the fashion experience value is higher, but I am impatient because I can not easily find a product that can be worn by myself. Model & photographer Kyohei Hattori and talent Kurihara Rikun, and Yoji fans around me are all thin, long and perfect. Can you find clothes that look good for me, thick and short?……I'm sorry.
And I picked up these two clothes. An asymmetric shirt (38,000 yen * All prices in + tax price) combined with thorn-like drier and technorama T-cloth, and a cloak (76,000 yen) using standard wool / gabazine. I think I'll probably get there without any problems. The sleeves were full of confidence.
No (laughs) My wardrobe has several cloaks of cloak, and although it's plain, it's very difficult at the top. Stop adventure, let's make this a more basic one. I asked the clerk for help.
"It's popular with the elderly and doesn't choose the person to wear." A double-designed long coat (58,000 yen) made of light and smooth Tencel Barley material creates a mode-like atmosphere when the button is fastened up, and wraps my body completely. This is something that can be used on a daily basis, and it doesn't seem uncomfortable to wear over a business suit. No matter how old you are, it's fun to find a new one.
Subsequently, on the 2nd floor, "discorder Yohji Yamamoto". It is a brand of luxury accessories proposed by Yoji, who has overturned the established concept of fashion since his debut in 1972.
The first thing that attracted me was the umbrella collection (128,000 yen). When you hold it, it's light enough to say "Eh?" The middle bar and the bone part are made of carbon, and the feel of the opening and closing motion is so irritating that it is hard to write. The material on the umbrella is high-density polyester. It uses a special weaving structure, and water droplets cut like lotus leaves. What a shame! The price is over 140,000 yen including tax, but it is said that two bottles were already sold even on weekday evenings. GINZA SIX customers are also amazing!
After all, my bag was very difficult for me, so I decided to escape to accessories. An accessory case (39,000 yen) with a motif of this Kumatori is likely to accentuate your styling by hooking it on a necklace.
The white daruma is also cute! The smartphone folder (39,000 yen) on the left is an excellent thing that can store not only iPhone but also cards and bills. I want to take it to the next collection.
One shoulder bag may have a strong image for women. But now is a genderless age. It would be more enjoyable to share between couples and couples.
I was tired of the game with Yoji, so I wanted to inject oil instead of enthusiasm. I like Pom de Frit as much as white rice. In European families, they have a rice cooker-type fryer, a necessity, since they were college students, and make homemade frits quite frequently. The main factor of my 92cm waist is definitely due to carp. And headed for AND THE FRIET, a French fries specialty store on the B2F inspired by Belgium. The GINZA SIX store is a snack-style dry frit specialty store, not fried on the spot.
A dry frit is, in an easy-to-understand manner, a high-grade version of Calbee Jagaby. Premium salt, balsamico and pepper, black truff salt, honey salt and butter, anchovi and garlic, etc., have an attractive taste that seems to drool just by listening. You can sample everything at the store, so don't hesitate to eat it. Everything is delicious, but the best is the black truff salt.
They also sell drinks that reduce the guilt of oily. Honey Lemon Water (550 yen) is refreshing with sweet taste. Oil, let's go!
I purchased "Dry Frit Okamochi" (3,210 yen) with 6 packs in assortment. I wanted to eat everything, not one. It's a celebrous couch potato tonight!
On the night of that day, it was secretly kicked by Yoji in his dream, saying, "Let's lose weight!"
Text: Kajimaro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada (edit81)
I’m a total fashion show addict. For seven years, I went and saw nearly every Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and Milan, Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, and Fashion Week in Tokyo, a pace of some 250 shows a year. I have so many opportunities to write runway reviews, people tend to think of me as a dedicated follower of the high fashion camp. In fact, during my youthful and impressionable years in the 1980s and 1990s, I spent no time whatsoever with so-called designer brands. I was interested in Antwerp Six and Martin Margiela but, in my twenties, I preferred certain brands, known to the cognoscenti in America and Europe, that would be found in mixed label store or boutique.
At the start of the 2000s, I encountered two brands known for their powerful aesthetics: TOKITO by Tokihito Yoshida and m’s braque by Takahiro Matsushita. They opened my eyes to the appeal of designer brands. Since then, as the years have passed, my notion of the possible when selecting clothing has expanded; now it’s completely out of hand. I even willingly accept the challenge posed by domestic brands from young hardly-20 designers. I still really admire designer brands from America and Europe, I would hasten to add. At one time, in the 1980s, I wouldn’t have been caught dead wearing designer brands: now, I’m all over them at vintage clothing shops. My waistline expands every year, which holds me back some, but now I’m into wearing anything I like.
All this is to say I’ve been somewhat inconsistent, but to this day, I’ve never worn Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing. Yamamoto’s reach and power today is amazing. Men’s fashion shows in Paris admit 250 guests at most. Fans without invitations stand waiting in several lines that trail around the venue; the atmosphere is unique. Sales are remarkable both globally and in Japan, with a veritable explosion of millennial fans over the past several years. It’s fair to say Yamamoto and Kawakubo are the only designers anywhere in the world able to enthrall the equivalent of their grandchildren’s generation. Consider that the designer is of my parents’ generation: that speaks to divine powers.
Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes don’t necessarily look good on everyone. I see pieces season after season I really want to wear, though I don’t personally like wearing a single brand and can’t ever make up my mind on what to get. And at such times, Ground Y comes to mind. It offers up an ageless gender-agnostic style; Yamamoto when he’s come back down to Earth, you might say. I’ve also heard the line features numerous perennial standards. So, all this in mind, I head to the fourth floor of GINZA SIX to find my very first Yamamoto.
I haven’t been this excited on a sales floor for a while. I’m among the more experienced when it comes to fashion, but I actually have trouble finding pieces I can actually wear, something that wears on my patience. The Yamamoto fans I know personally, like the model and photographer Kyohei Hattori and model and celebrity Rui Kurihara, are all tall and slender, with ideal figures. How is someone like me, short and rotund, supposed to find fashion that flatters me in particular?
I pick up these two pieces: an asymmetric shirt (38,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) that combines mellow draped Tencel Burberry and Technorama Tengu and a cape (76,000 yen) made from a standard wool/polyester gabardine fabric. Just looking at them convinces me feel like I can wear either, and I try them on with renewed confidence.
Oops. I do have a number of capes in my wardrobe, and I wear them regularly without the slightest hesitation, but the level of difficulty this one presents is off the charts. Let’s quit this adventure and try on something more basic. I ask for assistance from one of the good-looking young attendants.
“This is popular with older people as well. It’s something anyone can wear.” The article being recommended here happens to be this double-breasted long coat (58,000 yen) made from light and smooth Tencel Burberry. Buttoned all the way up, it both emanates high fashion mystique and completely wraps up my portly frame: something actually suitable for daily wear. And it’d go perfectly over a business suit without seeming a stitch out of place. All in all, one of those delightful articles that help you find a new you, even as the years continue to toll.
My next visit is to discord Yohji Yamamoto on the second floor, a luxury accessory brand from Yohji Yamamoto, a designer who’s turned conventional fashion wisdom on its head since his debut in 1972.
I’m drawn first to the umbrella collection (128,000 yen). I lift one and exclaim, involuntarily, “Wow!” It’s startingly light. The shaft and ribs are made of carbon. The feel as it opens and closes is precise, silky, and luxurious beyond description. The canopy is high-density polyester. A unique weave is applied to the fabric so that it sheds water like a lotus leaf. Amazing! The price with tax is north of 140,000 yen, so it’s up there, but they tell me they’ve sold two today, an early evening of a weekday. I make a mental note that GINZA SIX patrons are equally amazing.
The difficulty posed by the bags is pretty high for me, so I take refuge in the accessories. Hung around one’s neck, this small case (39,000 yen) with its kabuki motif makes a pleasing accent.
The white daruma is also appealing. The smartphone folder on the left (39,000 yen) fits your iPhone, of course, but would also be great for cards and cash. Maybe I’ll take one on my next Fashion Week assignment.
Shoulder bags that go over just one shoulder tend to be associated with women, but we live a gender-free age. It strikes me it’d be fun for dating or married couples to share a bag.
My attempts at Yamamoto have drained me. It’s not grit I need, but an infusion of fried food. I like pommes frites, or French fries, about as much as white rice, and I’ve had a rice cooker-like fryer, an essential item in European homes, since college. I make homemade fries on a fairly regular basis. These are, beyond a doubt, the major reason for my 92 cm waist. So I head to AND THE FRIET, a French fry specialist on the second belowground floor inspired by authentic Belgian frites. Actually, the GINZA SIX location doesn’t fry the fries on site; they specialize in snackable dried fries.
Put simply, these dried fries are the gourmet version of Calbee’s Jagabee snacks. They come in delectable flavors that make one’s mouth water just listening to the names: Premium Salt, Balsamic & Pepper, Black Truffle Salt, Honey Salt & Butter, and Anchovy & Garlic. You can sample all the flavors at the store and crunch away without hesitation. They’re all really, really good, but my favorite is Black Truffle Salt.
They also sell drinks to take the edge off deep-fried guilt. Honey Lemon Water (550 yen) is refreshing and not too sweet. Adieu, deep fry frets and fears!
I buy DRIED FRIET – OKAMOCHI (3,210 yen), a six pack assortment. I don’t want just one, I want to try them all! It’s celebrity couch potato night for me tonight!
…later that night, in restive dreams, Yamamoto declaims “Lose some weight already!”—and follows up with a startlingly athletic dropkick—but that’s just between you and me.
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada（edit81）
Born in 1972. Worked as a magazine editor and textile industry reporter before becoming a freelance fashion journalist. A unique figure in the industry, he covers both men’s and women’s fashion across a wide range of genres. Author of Shibuya Casual Made Me Who I Am (Kodansha).GINZASIX_OFFICIAL Instagram