GINZA SIX EDITORS
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My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.88
We like fashion show. For these seven years, we saw almost all overseas men's Collection of Paris and Milan, Pitti imajine uomo and Tokyo Collection with my naked eyes. Do in the year; and 250 pace. It is completely patient addicted to defire. As there are many opportunities to write review of orchid way, I am apt to seem to be mode group of being hard, but I have gone through impressionable time in the 1980-90 generation without crossing with so-called designer's brand. Though both all of Antwerp six and Martin Margiela were interested, is put in select Shops to me who am in my twenties; "signature product was more attractive to the people in the know of Europe and America".
In the early 2000s of "TOKITO" (TO KI TO) and Takahiro Matsushita of Tokihito Yoshida "(brand and encounter, I who contained strong sense of beauty called m' s braque (m's braque) became able to see in charm of designer's brand. Thereafter whenever "excursion" of selection of clothes passes through year, it is expanded and is not completely settled now. We challenge young domestic brand of 20 years old there there and love the European and American signature product same as before. We fall into DC brand of the 80s when we did not want to wear even if we die with used clothing before intensely. There is restriction of enlarged WEST, but feels wearing even anything with being interested now every year.
It is clothes of Yoji Yamamoto that such Masuda not finished breaking cannot yet let pass sleeve. Force of the present toothpick is really great. The number of people to classify into men's show of Paris is not more than 250. Fan who does not have invitation case at venue entrance becomes atmosphere that line or the outskirts are strange to several folds. Sales are quite well in both world and Japan, and fans of the mireniaruzu layer continue increasing explosively for these past several years. Even if designer who can let you make grandchild generation crazy about looks around the world, we think that it is only toothpick and Kawakubo. The existence is already near God if we think that we say own parental generation.
But nobody may look good with clothes of toothpick. Though we come across thing to think to be, "we want to wear" in every season, oneself that it is hard to wear one brand by total is not accompanied by decision a little……. It is existence of "Ground Y" (ground Y) that came to mind in such a case. It is GENDERless and, with brand suggesting ageless style, is, so to speak, "toothpick which went down on ground" (ground). We hear that a lot of standard-like products align. That's why we turned foot to 4F of GINZA SIX in order to look for "my first toothpick".
It is after a long absence to have throbbed so much in sales floor. We think fashion experience level to be high, but product which we seem to be able to dress well by oneself is not readily found and gets impatient. Only as for people in perfect system which toothpick fan around Louis Kurihara or oneself of Kyohei Hattori and talent of model & photographer is thin, and is long. Will clothes looking good on me who am metabolic who am short be found thickly as expected?…….
Well, it is this second place that picked up. Asymmetric shirt (all 38,000 yen ※ lower than + tax price) which put tencel Burberry of a feeling of thick omission and techno llama T-cloth together and mantle (76,000 yen) using gabardine of classic wool/polyester. We seemed to see and probably seem to be able to dress well without problem. We let pass sleeve with confidentness.
zun (laugh). Though there are several mantles to my wardrobe and wears without any embarrassment commonly, this is first-class, and degree of difficulty is high. Adventure is limited and will make more basic guy here. We called for help to good-looking staff.
It is this that it was recommended saying "we are popular from elderly person and do not choose person wearing". As for the long coat (58,000 yen) of double specifications of light, smooth tencel Burberry material, it is in atmosphere that it is mode-like if we keep button to the top and wraps up I nogon large no body completely. This seems to be usable routinely, and there seems to be no sense of incongruity even if we put from business suit. It is pleasant to discover oneself new at any age.
What went successively of 2F "discord Yohji Yamamoto (D cord Yohji Yamamoto). Since debut of 1972, it is brand of luxury accessories which toothpick which overturned established concept of fashion suggests.
What attracted eye first collection of umbrella (128,000 yen). It is light so that "e" and voice come out when we have. Middle stick and part of bone are made of carbon, and the touch of opening and closing is luxury so as to be beyond description. Polyester dense as for the material of umbrella part. We adopt special texture structure, and it is said that drop of water is cut like lotus leaf. It is great what it is! As for the price, 14 tax-included manenetsu etogo is excellent, but it is said that two already sold in spite of the evening on weekdays on that day. Visitor of GINZA SIX is great, too!
As degree of difficulty was high in bag for me, we decided to escape to accessories. When this making up splashes accessory case (39,000 yen) of motif on necklace, and use; of styling seem to accentuate.
White Dharma is pretty, too! Comfort that the left smartphone folder (39,000 yen) can hold card and charm let alone iPhone. We want to take to the next Collection coverage.
Bag of one shoulder of shoulder cliff may be strong in female oriented image. But the times when it is GENDERless now. We seem to be able to enjoy more if we share between couple and couples.
As we were exhausted from game with toothpick, we wanted to inject oil not spirit. I like apple de fritto = French fries almost as same as white rice. We have rice cooker-shaped fryer of necessities since the days of university student at home in Europe and make homemade fritto with considerable frequency. The main factor of WEST of my 92cm is certainly his fault. Well, store specializing in French fries "AND THE FRIET" (andozafuritto) of B2F done inspire in what went by home Belgium. We do not fry GINZA SIX shop on the spot and are dry fritto specialty store of snack format.
To put it simply, with dry fritto, it is for high quality of CALBEE nojaga B. Premium salt, balsamico and pepper, black truffle salt, honey salt and butter, fascinating taste that slaver seems to hang down just to have heard including anchovy and garlic are equal. As we can try all at store, we have hard without reserve. It is delicious, but is anything black truffle salt most?
We sell drink reducing a sense of guilt that is covered with oil. Honey lemon water (550 yen) is refreshing for lightly sweetened taste. Oil, farewell!
"Dry fritto Oka rice cake" which 6 packs entered with assortment in what purchased (3,210 yen). Not one, we all wanted to eat. Couch potato ja celebrity-like this evening!
What fly, and kick, and was done is secret while being said to be "temee lean person sero!" to toothpick in dream at night of the day.
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada (edit81)
I’m a total fashion show addict. For seven years, I went and saw nearly every Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and Milan, Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, and Fashion Week in Tokyo, a pace of some 250 shows a year. I have so many opportunities to write runway reviews, people tend to think of me as a dedicated follower of the high fashion camp. In fact, during my youthful and impressionable years in the 1980s and 1990s, I spent no time whatsoever with so-called designer brands. I was interested in Antwerp Six and Martin Margiela but, in my twenties, I preferred certain brands, known to the cognoscenti in America and Europe, that would be found in mixed label store or boutique.
At the start of the 2000s, I encountered two brands known for their powerful aesthetics: TOKITO by Tokihito Yoshida and m’s braque by Takahiro Matsushita. They opened my eyes to the appeal of designer brands. Since then, as the years have passed, my notion of the possible when selecting clothing has expanded; now it’s completely out of hand. I even willingly accept the challenge posed by domestic brands from young hardly-20 designers. I still really admire designer brands from America and Europe, I would hasten to add. At one time, in the 1980s, I wouldn’t have been caught dead wearing designer brands: now, I’m all over them at vintage clothing shops. My waistline expands every year, which holds me back some, but now I’m into wearing anything I like.
All this is to say I’ve been somewhat inconsistent, but to this day, I’ve never worn Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing. Yamamoto’s reach and power today is amazing. Men’s fashion shows in Paris admit 250 guests at most. Fans without invitations stand waiting in several lines that trail around the venue; the atmosphere is unique. Sales are remarkable both globally and in Japan, with a veritable explosion of millennial fans over the past several years. It’s fair to say Yamamoto and Kawakubo are the only designers anywhere in the world able to enthrall the equivalent of their grandchildren’s generation. Consider that the designer is of my parents’ generation: that speaks to divine powers.
Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes don’t necessarily look good on everyone. I see pieces season after season I really want to wear, though I don’t personally like wearing a single brand and can’t ever make up my mind on what to get. And at such times, Ground Y comes to mind. It offers up an ageless gender-agnostic style; Yamamoto when he’s come back down to Earth, you might say. I’ve also heard the line features numerous perennial standards. So, all this in mind, I head to the fourth floor of GINZA SIX to find my very first Yamamoto.
I haven’t been this excited on a sales floor for a while. I’m among the more experienced when it comes to fashion, but I actually have trouble finding pieces I can actually wear, something that wears on my patience. The Yamamoto fans I know personally, like the model and photographer Kyohei Hattori and model and celebrity Rui Kurihara, are all tall and slender, with ideal figures. How is someone like me, short and rotund, supposed to find fashion that flatters me in particular?
I pick up these two pieces: an asymmetric shirt (38,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) that combines mellow draped Tencel Burberry and Technorama Tengu and a cape (76,000 yen) made from a standard wool/polyester gabardine fabric. Just looking at them convinces me feel like I can wear either, and I try them on with renewed confidence.
Oops. I do have a number of capes in my wardrobe, and I wear them regularly without the slightest hesitation, but the level of difficulty this one presents is off the charts. Let’s quit this adventure and try on something more basic. I ask for assistance from one of the good-looking young attendants.
“This is popular with older people as well. It’s something anyone can wear.” The article being recommended here happens to be this double-breasted long coat (58,000 yen) made from light and smooth Tencel Burberry. Buttoned all the way up, it both emanates high fashion mystique and completely wraps up my portly frame: something actually suitable for daily wear. And it’d go perfectly over a business suit without seeming a stitch out of place. All in all, one of those delightful articles that help you find a new you, even as the years continue to toll.
My next visit is to discord Yohji Yamamoto on the second floor, a luxury accessory brand from Yohji Yamamoto, a designer who’s turned conventional fashion wisdom on its head since his debut in 1972.
I’m drawn first to the umbrella collection (128,000 yen). I lift one and exclaim, involuntarily, “Wow!” It’s startingly light. The shaft and ribs are made of carbon. The feel as it opens and closes is precise, silky, and luxurious beyond description. The canopy is high-density polyester. A unique weave is applied to the fabric so that it sheds water like a lotus leaf. Amazing! The price with tax is north of 140,000 yen, so it’s up there, but they tell me they’ve sold two today, an early evening of a weekday. I make a mental note that GINZA SIX patrons are equally amazing.
The difficulty posed by the bags is pretty high for me, so I take refuge in the accessories. Hung around one’s neck, this small case (39,000 yen) with its kabuki motif makes a pleasing accent.
The white daruma is also appealing. The smartphone folder on the left (39,000 yen) fits your iPhone, of course, but would also be great for cards and cash. Maybe I’ll take one on my next Fashion Week assignment.
Shoulder bags that go over just one shoulder tend to be associated with women, but we live a gender-free age. It strikes me it’d be fun for dating or married couples to share a bag.
My attempts at Yamamoto have drained me. It’s not grit I need, but an infusion of fried food. I like pommes frites, or French fries, about as much as white rice, and I’ve had a rice cooker-like fryer, an essential item in European homes, since college. I make homemade fries on a fairly regular basis. These are, beyond a doubt, the major reason for my 92 cm waist. So I head to AND THE FRIET, a French fry specialist on the second belowground floor inspired by authentic Belgian frites. Actually, the GINZA SIX location doesn’t fry the fries on site; they specialize in snackable dried fries.
Put simply, these dried fries are the gourmet version of Calbee’s Jagabee snacks. They come in delectable flavors that make one’s mouth water just listening to the names: Premium Salt, Balsamic & Pepper, Black Truffle Salt, Honey Salt & Butter, and Anchovy & Garlic. You can sample all the flavors at the store and crunch away without hesitation. They’re all really, really good, but my favorite is Black Truffle Salt.
They also sell drinks to take the edge off deep-fried guilt. Honey Lemon Water (550 yen) is refreshing and not too sweet. Adieu, deep fry frets and fears!
I buy DRIED FRIET – OKAMOCHI (3,210 yen), a six pack assortment. I don’t want just one, I want to try them all! It’s celebrity couch potato night for me tonight!
…later that night, in restive dreams, Yamamoto declaims “Lose some weight already!”—and follows up with a startlingly athletic dropkick—but that’s just between you and me.
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada（edit81）
Born in 1972. Worked as a magazine editor and textile industry reporter before becoming a freelance fashion journalist. A unique figure in the industry, he covers both men’s and women’s fashion across a wide range of genres. Author of Shibuya Casual Made Me Who I Am (Kodansha).GINZASIX_OFFICIAL Instagram