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A Sojourn of Entrancing Flavors in Ginza A Sojourn of Entrancing Flavors in Ginza
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.101
We want to go on a trip. Without, after okomorino spring, being able to seem to be summer, in no time autumn sign. We want to go out somewhere soon…In being restless in this, there is no help for it. After all, the powerful charm of trip is scenery and person only in the land, encounter with taste. For among other things gluttonous me purpose of trip to 1 and 2 and 3 "meal." Only therefore, for delicious thing which it cannot eat, it is always one even that go to the land.
There is place meeting my "trip" desire and "glutton" desire at a stretch now where there is not readily trip in Ginza. B2F of GINZA SIX. In the north, Hokkaido, the south have delicious things of each places of the whole country to Fukuoka. Though we saw so-called "food stores in the department store basement" circumstances as glutton editor in various ways, there is not such throbbing lineup elsewhere. Of course delicious thing becoming fun is prepared too much, and, in what mind worked from lunch to sweets, drink and present having good taste can buy, reward product for oneself, house time squander money regularly if they come here. Oh, place that is crime….
Therefore we ran through B2F of GINZA SIX under the theme of "delicious trip" this time. This trip is already too fun! We promise to be able to make this plan, another six plan.
At first, having come first "10FACTORY." For mandarin orange-colored beautiful gradation, it is tension *jo gari. With brand which was born in order to enliven mandarin orange industry of citrus fruit kingdom, Ehime where this with main store is number one in Japan in Ehime, Matsuyama-shi, lineup including jam, jelly, dried fruit and honey is richness from juice.
After having stared shelf where juice was displayed at hard, to jelly corner. We are enchanted by flower garden (I was able to see so) where flower of jelly totally bloomed in profusion. It is indicated that we strongly actually bear all types, place that we want to purchase from earnest expression.
Three that chose the staff saying "we choose juice which could feel having taken a trip to Ehime, Matsuyama" while plying with questions. From the right, it is Iyo orange, sweet flat kashi 28 size. As for kind "Iyo orange" representing Ehime (all 500 yen ※ lower than + tax price), Balance of sweetness and acidity is perfection, taste of the mandarin orange. Follow; "sweet, is flat", and (704 yen) features the finest sweetness. It is difficult to bring up and seems to be rare Ehime original kind. Finally "kashi 28 size" that we drank (704 yen) is Ehime original kind. Tropical sweetness that there is flavor such as peach is unbearable! Feeling is already Ehime nau.
Well, if say trip; station lunch. Does kewpie have something?…?
If say station lunch; "pot meal of mountain pass" of "Ogino-ya!" When we went to Gunma and the Nagano area, we always buy by conditioned response if we see. (it was "pot meal of mountain pass" that kewpie had)
Indeed, at place called Ginza, to be able to buy "pot meal of mountain pass"…. As, let alone side dish and rice which were contained if very heavy one is crowded, container is earthenware pot of grilled excellent Mashiko. There are a lot of this space pots in house to take to go in commemoration of trip without throwing away every time. We can cook rice and are convenient on fire directly at home. We open orange wrapping paper quietly and become exalted even if we see figure which moment, chestnut and chicken, quail and apricot which opened cover of pot line up beautifully how many times.
Specialty station lunch "pot meal of mountain pass" which was born with the Yokogawa Station opening of business of Shinetsu Main Line in 1958 (1,019 yen). That station lunch which entered earthenware pot with high heat retention was groundbreaking in those days. Container of paper in consideration for environment comes up recently, too. Of sugarcane squeeze, and is made of non-wood pulp using refuse. Longtime seller loved more than 55 years changes in this way with the times. In this, it is long-established store.
It is Hokkaido that went on a trip successively. As for shop which is "Shiroikoibito" speaking of standard of Hokkaido souvenir, but familiar "Ishiya Seika" develops with "Shiroikoibito" as for this, the name "ISHIYA GINZA." Product to be able to buy only in in fun under the theme of cake that Hokkaido is felt in topic. Hokkaido Tami seems to have possibilities to ask Tokyo souvenir for this cake, and wonderful reimportation phenomenon seems to be taking place.
"Case" that sand did chocolate of six kinds of taste that were particular about caramel, Hokkaido cheese, the Hokkaido subject matter including Hokkaido wine with colorful langue de chat is the first popularity. It is this beautiful box that it is right cake which inherited DNA of "Shiroikoibito", but beat fast above all! Colorful box which print that flower of each flavor and Hokkaido became motif was spread all over like tile is refined and is most suitable for present. I who pile up box for oneself absorbedly while saying this as it is too wonderful. After having enjoyed "case" with wine, shall we use for this box, what?…? wakuwaku does not stop anymore.
Oops, we discover box glittering in silver and blue here! This "rucksack" of debuting (1,000 yen). Special dish which raised up discerning chocolate with langue de chat around.
We want to carry chocolate in the best state. Wonderful item taking such a gluttonous desire certainly is born. So cool bag (700 yen). Pack cake of Hokkaido feeling full loading into bag of light blue lovely print used for package of assortment which six kinds of "cases" entered; and this smile delighted happily. By the way, design of each six kinds of flavor motifs enters print of this light blue bag.
To taste autumn taste next time; to Gifu. While here "Ena chestnut studio Ryohei temple" is founded in 1946 and it is for a limited time now and, in store specializing in chestnut cakes which are only in 1 store in Ena-shi, Gifu, opens a store until January 31, 2021. By the way, Ena district (Nakatsugawa-shi, Ena-shi) of Southeast Gifu is excellent production center of chestnut.
Kurikinton being famous for cake using Ena chestnut (enakuri) of sweetness that is rich in hokkuhoku, but being representative cake with the Kurikinton "chestnut fortune rice cake" (390 yen). Kurikinton is contained in dry persimmon of bright orange Nagano, Ichida, and texture overjoyed thickly is habit-forming. We bark persimmon and make dried cut and take out species and fill with Kurikinton. As it is said that all is manual labor by expert craftsman, it is surprising! It is with famous confection dedicating to Ise Grand Shrine from 2013. With such an episode, let's use this for superior person and present toward the age.
Besides, chestnut yokan and chestnut dorayaki that there is a lot of chestnut even if we cut where, sum potetonado of chestnut which sweet potato does not become, cake of various chestnut. It is right trip in Gifu over chestnut.
Is pot meal, Gifu, Ena in mandarin orange juice, Gunma, Yokokawa in Ehime, Matsuyama; in cake of chestnut, Hokkaido, Sapporo chocolate. Collect "delicious things" which took root in climate of each land, and is completely trip feeling.
In the roof "GINZA SIX garden" that is full of right in the middle, green of Tokyo, Ginza, we will have war trophies of trip!
Therefore the first (?) of "we go on a trip that it is delicious in Ginza" This is finished safely. Gluttonous trip still continues while savoring taste of the land slowly and carefully slowly. Where shall we go next time?
Text: Miho Tanaka Photos: Jun Hasegawa Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
I want to travel, I want to rove. Sheltered in place all spring, I’ve seen summer come and go in the blink of an eye, with none of the usual summer things, with signs of fall now already in the air. I want to get out, I want to go somewhere—I can’t help feeling fidgety thinking about this. The pleasure of travel, of course, lies in the scenery, people, and flavors of the very place you’re visiting. I can’t get enough of good food, so when I travel, food is first, second, and third on my agenda. I look for delicious things unique to a place and head there. Normally, this is something I do fairly often.
Travel isn’t so easy now, but there’s a place that quenches my thirst for travel and desire for great food. That’s Ginza—specifically, the second belowground floor of GINZA SIX. From Hokkaido in the north to Fukuoka Prefecture in the south, there’s delicious food here from all over Japan. As the food-loving editor that I am, I’ve looked around at the various food floors in the basements of various department stores, but none offers the sparkle and appeal of the lineup at GINZA SIX. From bento to sweets and drinks to thoughtful, tasteful gifts and souvenirs—all of this is here. But you can also get a little something for yourself. There’s delicious food here—almost too much of it!—to enrich your time at home. So when I come here I spend, spend, spend. Sinful indulgences? Perhaps…
My theme today is travel with a focus on entrancing flavors. I’ve come to the second belowground floor at GINZA SIX. This trip is too much fun—but it’ll require six more to fulfill my entire agenda of gourmandise!
First up is 10FACTORY. Seeing such beautiful shades of orange sets my heart aflutter. With a flagship store located in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, Japan’s No. 1 citrus producer—the Citrus Kingdom, as it’s known—this brand promotes the prefecture’s mikan industry. The store sells everything from juice to jams, jellies, dried fruit, honey, and more—a rich lineup.
After staring at the shelves of juices so hard, I head to the jelly section. It’s a field of flowers, of jelly flowers blooming their hearts out—or so it strikes me. It leaves me entranced. You can tell from the serious look on my face I’m doing my best to hold back from buying every single variety.
Peppering the sales associate with questions like, “How about a juice that makes you feel like you’re vacationing in Matsuyama in Ehime Prefecture?”, I end up choosing these three. From the left, Iyokan, Kanpei, and Kashi No. 28. Iyokan (500 yen; all prices listed before tax), a variety of mikan for which Ehime is especially well known, provides a perfect balance of sweet and tart—the definitive mikan flavor. Next is Kanpei (704 yen), the ultimate in sweetness. This variety is hard to grow and a rare variety original to Ehime Prefecture. The last one I drink is Kashi No. 28 (704 yen), also an original Ehime variety. I can’t get enough of the tropical sweetness with peach-like flavors. In my mind, I’m already in Ehime.
How can one travel in Japan without buying a bento at the train station? Can you see what Kewpie has there?
To my mind, the ultimate train station bento is Toge no Kamameshi from Oginoya. It’s something I buy reflexively whenever I head to Gunma or Nagano Prefectures. (In passing, Kewpie here is holding a Toge no Kamameshi bento.)
I can’t believe I can get a Toge no Kamameshi in Ginza. Wow—it’s heavy. It’s because so many ingredients are stuffed in there, but also because the container is an actual clay bowl fired in the famous pottery village of Mashiko. A souvenir from the trip; you won’t throw it out each time, you’ll bring it home to keep. I have a bunch of these bowls at home. They stand up to direct heat, so I use them to cook rice. Very convenient. I carefully unwrap the orange wrapping paper, remove the lid, and peer at the beautifully arranged toppings of a chestnut, chicken, a boiled quail egg, and a dried apricot. It’s uplifting no matter how many times I’ve seen it.
The famous Toge no Kamameshi (1,019 yen) train station bento was created in 1958 alongside the opening of Yokokawa Station on the Shin’etsu Main Line. At the time, a station bento provided in a clay pot, which keeps food warm exceptionally well, was revolutionary. They recently introduced environmentally-friendly paper containers made from a non-wood pulp fiber made from crushed sugarcane residue. Even a perennial best seller beloved for more than 55 years changes when the times change. This is the commendable spirit of a venerable institution like Oginoya.
The next stop on my trip is Hokkaido. Shiroi Koibito is the standard Hokkaido souvenir. It just so happens that this store is run by Ishiya Co., makers of Shiroi Koibito, the little langue de chat cookies with white chocolate. The name, too, is ISHIYA GINZA. Strangely enough, in the context of cookies and sweets that put one in a Hokkaido state of mind, products available only outside Hokkaido have emerged as a hot topic. They say Hokkaido residents often ask someone visiting Tokyo to bring back some of these Tokyo-only Hokkaido sweets—a nice example of the faux nonnative import phenomenon, perhaps.
Of the six flavors of chocolate available, all drawing on Hokkaido ingredients like caramel, Hokkaido cheese, and Hokkaido wine, Saku, sandwiched between multicolored langue de chat is the most popular. The sweets here truly inherit the DNA of Shiroi Koibito, but I’m just as inspired by the lovely boxes. Their design is based on the flavors and flowering plants of Hokkaido, with motifs arranged in tile-like patterns. They’re elegant and make great gifts… I say this, but they’re so nice I forget myself and pile them up in my arms just for me. After enjoying Saku with some wine, what should I do with the boxes? Again, I’m filled with elation just thinking about it.
Oh my, look what we have here, sparkling boxes of silver and blue. These are the new Zaku (1,000 yen). Made with premium chocolate rolled up in langue de chat—an exquisite treat.
I set myself the mission of getting this chocolate home in the best possible condition. It so happens that the perfect item to meet this particular need exists: this little cooler bag, the Horei Bag (700 yen). The bag features the same charming light blue pattern found on the Saku boxes filled with six-flavor assortments. Imagine my delight with all these sweets, all brimming with Hokkaido spirit! The light blue pattern on the bag, incidentally, incorporates each of the six motifs corresponding to the six flavors.
My journey continues. For some seasonal fall flavors, up next is Gifu Prefecture. This is Enaguri Kobo Ryoheido, a chestnut confectionary specialist founded in 1946 as a single storefront in Ena, Gifu Prefecture. The location here will be in GINZA SIX for a limited time, until January 31, 2021. In case you were wondering, the Ena region of southeastern Gifu Prefecture (the cities of Nakatsugawa and Ena) is renowned for its chestnuts.
Richly flavored sweets made with sweet Ena chestnuts include the famous kuri kinton (candied chestnuts). Another famous chestnut confection is Kuri Fukumochi (390 yen), comprising kuri kinton stuffed in a vibrant orange-colored persimmon, peeled, dried, and cut open to remove the seeds, from Ichida in Nagano Prefecture. The autumnal textures of sticky persimmon and soft, flaky chestnut are positively addictive. It’s a bit of a surprise to learn everything is done by hand by skilled confection makers. I’m told these famous chestnut confections have been bestowed as offerings at Ise Jingu shrine since 2013. I’ll be sure to relate this story when I give them as gifts to my superiors or those senior to me.
The store also has chestnut yokan (sweet chestnut paste jelly) and chestnut dorayaki (pancake sandwiched with sweet chestnut paste). Cut into one and you will find chestnuts. Plus there are also Japanese-style baked sweet chestnut cakes—a huge variety of chestnut confections. Truly a chestnut-filled trip in Gifu.
With my mikan juice from Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, kamameshi from Yokokawa, Gunma Prefecture, chestnut confections from Ena, Gifu Prefecture, chocolate confections from Sapporo, Hokkaido, I’m all set. I’ve assembled delicious fare from the local land and culture. I can now say I’ve well-travelled.
Here I am, enjoying the spoils of my travel at GINZA SIX Garden on the rooftop, a sanctuary of green in the middle of Ginza, Tokyo.
And so my first (?) sojourn of entrancing flavors in ginza comes to a happy conclusion. I’ve leisurely partaken of the flavors of each locality to my heart’s content. But this food-lover’s travels are far from over. Where next?
Text: Miho Tanaka Photos: Jun Hasegawa Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
Edits and writes lifestyle features, culture pages, and interview articles covering travel, food, and interior design for Precious, Waraku, and Domani. Has edited Miru Chikara by Sawako Agawa as well as recipe and lifestyle books. Fully fixated on delicious things, she’s also an active gastronome editor.GINZASIX_OFFICIAL Instagram