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Appreciating Friends: Inlaid with 90s Flavor Appreciating Friends: Inlaid with 90s Flavor
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.102
The world is booming in the 1990s. Well, even if you say too much before the sky, have you seen a word like "Show in a 90's mood" or "90's sports MIX" somewhere? It is said that fashion goes around, but the 90's style is one of the representative scenes. So, the drama representing the 90's is decided by "Friends". This is a boom with a genuine unprecedented boom, and in the U.S. audience ranking, it seems that he was always at the top 10 in the year from the first season in 1994 to the final season in 2004.
The stage is New York. Six men and women around that age, who are still early to call themselves adults, but must also serve as members of society, struggle in love with friendship (sometimes work). Personally, as a reason for the hit, I personally sympathize with the looseness seen in Sit Back and Relax, the point that eliminates the moratriam desire, and the process of gradually becoming an adult. I think there is a place to do. After that, I had to wait for the drama "Sex and the City" to appear before fashion attracted viewers.
Nevertheless, Anyway, the fashion that the characters of Friends wear is so cute. It's really like this. 90's on the royal road. Of course, the appearance of "Friends" fashion is one of the marketing activities of the entire fashion industry, as a result of this brainwash, but that's not the case. Cute ones are cute.
I'm going to look for the trend Dozba's 90's "Friends" fashion at GINZA SIX this time.
The first step was "rag & bone" on the 3rd floor of the New York Collection. It looks like a brand that started with denim, and is good at casual wear that does not stretch your shoulders. It is a rare brand that is urban, unpretentious, but looks stylish, that is, can create a sense of familiarity just by wearing it. The trend of the big silhouette, which was in the right state of each brand, was really cool, with a stance that could be incorporated as a spice.
It's not exaggeration, but all the racks are really seasonal and modern. In addition, there are items that remind you of the main characters of "Friends" such as Raychell and Monica. What you can't remove is a cropped cut-and-sew or knit. I feel like I'm going to combine high-waist denims with a short top that's just enough to get a navel out. Even more efortresses for washed blue wash. The striped knit (37,000 yen * All + tax price) with a vivid blue contrast at the top is a compact silhouette that brings out a healthy charm.
Pants (28,000 yen) that look like damaged jeans are actually wet (!) I'm sorry. This is an item that makes full use of elaborate transfer printing technology, but this also creates a perfect active feeling. It looks comfortable. If you wear a slightly mannish coat from above, you're also a Raychell.
Bootcut jeans (28,000 yen) with cut hems can also have a rough feeling. Yes, if you say fashion in the 1990s, you will find that "power is missing" and "no care". This is due to the importance of comfort and relaxation under a new normal lifestyle, and I think that the mood is becoming more and more remarkable.
On the men's floor next door, watch out for outer wear. The black MA-1 (75,000 yen) was picked up without hesitation. Because of the original military item, the mainstream is a rounded silhouette, but this is a moderately tight silhouette, a slightly tight shoulder, and can be worn clearly. "Big silhouette, I'm tired" is especially recommended for fashionable people who are one step ahead. In fact, the creative director Marcus Weinlight is from the UK where Taylord culture takes root. It is no wonder that some conservative elegance is floating.
The work jacket with collar boa (75,000 yen) is reversible on both sides of A. You can show it chic with navy or play with crisp orange nylon.
The same New York collection connection, next to the 4th floor "HELMUT LANG". Designer Helmut Long was originally active in Europe, but moved his base to New York in 1997 (always in the middle of the "Friends" feature bar), and announced the second line of the same year, Helmut Transg Jeans. This collection line was very cool. An unusual approach to showing casual items to minimals. Looking at the past collection look, I think that the headwaters of the one-tone style as a townscape that has become commonplace now, such as combining ivory jackets with baggy denims of the same color, are here.
The current "herm trunk" also has a sophisticated atmosphere that leads to those days. As mentioned above, the practice here is "not stiff but stylish". Even if you look around the store, there are many short tops. When I asked the clerk, he said he was pushing this year as a brand. The picked seamless jersey camisole (15,000 yen) can be easily raised by layering it on a turtleneck sweater or a shirt dress. The blue washed denim (54,000 yen) is cute on the bottoms.
For men's items, the grey leather blouson (130,000 yen) can be seen. This is because the fall and winter style of men's characters in Friends such as Los Angeles and Chandler, and the appearance rate of leather blouson x knit x denim is just over 70% (self-search). Not only the silhouette but also the flaps and cuffs of the collar and pockets are finished in a straight line, and the minimalness is pushed back. The color of pastel grey, which is hard to find, is also familiar. The inner knit (47,000 yen) is a middle gauge with colorful yarn mixed based on monotone. The center of the sleeves is cut, and when bent, the elbows can be seen from there. It's a special dish for old fans. We choose one-wash denim (35,000 yen) with a painter pants-like design. If you put on your waist, you'll get better. The vivid expression also pays tribute to the model of the runway at the time.
Soaked in 90's fashion, you'll feel like you're Friends. By the way, in the drama, a cafe called "Central Park" appears, which is a pool for everyone. It is one of the synonymous with the story. GINZA SIX also has many cafes. Well, where would you like a cup of tightening? The drama cafe has a casual atmosphere that can be used daily. There are many cafes where you can relax with the feeling of "Friends", but it is a good opportunity and I want to play luxury. So, on the 13th floor, "GRAND CRU CAFPEGINZA" is said to change air.
This is José. A shop born with more than 40 years of knowledge and experience by Yoshiaki Kawashima. José. For all processes from fields to Ginza, such as farms, tree selection, selection, roasting, storage methods and packaging forms. Kawashima's commitment is packed. The atmosphere inside the store is really fashionable. The entire wall is covered with high quality leather. Because it is a so-called vegetable tannin with a soft touch, it is not glossy, combined with a retro chandelier, it is a luxurious but calm space.
You can also use a visitor, but basically you have a membership system. Keep and use coffee beans like a bar. A system (up to 6 cups) in which a bottle containing 100 grams of roasted beans is purchased in units of one bottle and coffee is brewed from that bottle. It is said that some bottles cost more than 100,000 yen if they cost about 10,000 yen each. When I look at my status, I'm completely stretched. But it's a story, and you can have a special experience that you can't usually taste. Bottle keeping is possible for two weeks, and there is no additional charge for re-entering the store, so you can use the salon.
I wrote the bottle a little earlier, but the beans are actually in the bottle (!) I'm sorry. The "ceremony" has begun since the opening of the champagne bottle, which was specially wholesaled, and the evangelist Sosuke Hasegawa smells the freshly opened bean flavor. When you pull out the pon and cork like champagne, the fresh scent spreads and you can smile without thinking.
I chose one grown at Lancheria Farm in Colombia (10,000 yen per bottle). He had a special appearance of a pure "tipica" species that had become illusions, which was difficult to reach the market. You drip carefully.…No, it's the beauty of the cups and saucers. This is an antique of "Old Noritake" with many collectors in Japan and overseas. It is said that they are selected according to the atmosphere of the customers, but my thing is that a golden dragon dances white porcelain, red and green shining stones are scattered everywhere, and art is no longer available. The tension rises in front of the mouth.
And if you make a bite,…This is very elegant. It has a sweetness like chocolate, and a light bitterness looks into your face later. From the counter near the window, the cityscape of Higashi Ginza was overlooked, and coffee drinking while watching this scenery was exceptional. If you take a picture here, you will definitely feel like everyone is upset. I felt cool with my distant eyes.
Go home with the scent of coffee. I found a strange container on my way home. There is a minimal and conceived art by artist Takuro Tamayama. If you look at the commentary, it is called an art container, and eight artists and creators make works on the theme of "new meeting" in containers of various sizes, and this will be installed in various places in the museum until February 23 next year It is said that it is done. It's interesting to just say "at 18:00, in front of Mr. @'s work", put on your smartphone, and try a meeting when there was no mobile phone. While I'm waiting, I'm flickering with the art that colors the container.
This time, I introduced it for a long time from a private perspective. But I don't think there are many people who don't think about fashion now. There are fewer opportunities to go out with fashion. So I don't think it's necessary to make it fashionable. That's the time. But the clothes are waiting. I want you to remember, the fabric, the tailoring, the silhouette, and the moment you pass through the sleeves to the clothes you bought through trial and error while saying that it is not this with the clerk and friends. The moment you feel up when you wear your favorite clothes on the glass of a building.
Clothes are strong. I believe it, not exaggeration. If you come to enjoy the power of your clothes, even this weekend, if you are not, when you are worried. And again, I want you to walk around the city of Ginza with a full smile. When I put on my favorite clothes, I reflected on the glass of the building, and if the building was GINZA SIX - as a writer, I'm no more happy.
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Text: Ryuta Morishita Photos: Takanori Hayashi Edit: Yuka Okada (81)
The world is in the midst of an unprecedented 90s craze. Perhaps unprecedented is overstatement, but you must’ve seen “The 90s Look” and “Sporty 90s Mix,” and other such phrases here and there. Fashion is cyclical, it’s said, and the 90s style is one of the main trends in the current scene. The consummate 90s TV sitcom has to be Friends, which spurred a bona fide unprecedented craze. In US national TV ratings, it ranked in the top ten every year from its inaugural season in 1994 to its sendoff in 2004.
Friends is set in New York. The six main characters, three men and three women, are of an age at which they are not yet fully adults, but face the various responsibilities of adults. They struggle, in a laidback way, with love and friendship (and sometimes work). I personally think it became such a hit because you could just sit back and relax as you watched, so casual was the world it created and the temporary escape it provided from adolescent dilemma. The characters were gradually growing into adulthood; there was much to relate to, much that rang true. After Friends ended, it wasn’t until Sex and the City that the fashions presented in a TV show would so broadly capture the imagination of viewers.
At any rate, the fashions worn by the characters on Friends are just really cute. And they’re so, so in right now. Straight outta the 90s. Of course, Friends fashion looks so in partly because the entire fashion industry is pushing the marketing. It’s the result of brainwashing, but, all the same, cute is cute; I do NOT care. My introduction here is rambling on, but, today, I’ll be searching for totally trendy 90s Friends fashion at GINZA SIX.
My first stop is rag ＆ bone on the third floor, a stalwart of New York Fashion Week. The brand began with denim. It’s great at unpretentious casual wear—urban, stylish, but unaffected. In short, it’s the rare brand that conjures a sense of effortlessness just in the wearing. When big silhouettes were all the rage, with all brands following suit, rag ＆ bone adopted the stance of adding a touch of this, as accents, a bit of spice. That was cool.
It’s no exaggeration to say everything on the rack is really in right now. Plus, some items are reminiscent of the styles of Rachel and Monica, two of the main characters in Friends. You can’t miss with cropped cut-and-sewns and knits. Pairing a short hemmed top that almost bares your navel with high-waisted denim gets the mood right (I mean, it’s so 90s…). The blue-washed look confers an effortless air. With its svelte silhouette, this knit, which goes from vivid blue on top to stripes (37,000 yen; all prices listed before tax), conjure a robust charm.
At a glance, these pants (28,000 yen) look like distressed denim—but, they’re actually sweats(!). They use sophisticated transfer printing technology, which produces an active feel that’s perfect for right now. They look comfortable, too. Slip a manly coat on over the top, and you, too, can be Rachel.
These boot-cut jeans with hems left untrimmed (28,000 yen) evoke a rough-hewn effortlessness. In terms of 90s fashion, the casual, unpretentious slacker look is just right. Given the new normal, with comfort and relaxation the focus, this general mood is gathering momentum.
On the men’s floor next door, outerwear draws my eye. Without hesitation, I pick out the black MA-1 (75,000 yen). While its military styling and rounded silhouettes are mainstream, this features fairly tight lines and somewhat bulky shoulders, which create an invigorating impression when you try it on. I recommend this to fashionistas a step ahead already tired of big silhouettes. Creative director Marcus Wainwright is from Britain, with its long-standing tradition of tailored clothing. In this context, the brand’s hints of conservative elegance make perfect sense.
This work jacket with a collar boa (75,000 yen) is fully reversible—two A sides. The navy is great for a chic look. The crisp orange nylon suggests fun.
In the spirit of New York Fashion Week, I head next to Helmut Lang on the fourth floor. Lang originally worked as a designer in Europe but in 1997 moved his base of operations to New York (actually, right in the middle of the Friends fever). That same year, he announced a second line, Helmut Lang Jeans. This collection was incredibly cool, a mold-breaking standard of minimalist casual wear—ideas like pairing an ivory jacket with the same color baggy denim. Checking out the past looks of the collections, I wondered if this brand wasn’t the original source of the monotone style now commonplace in street wear.
Today’s Helmut Lang has a refined airiness that recalls that time. What I mean by refined here is what I mentioned earlier: chic, but not stiff. Looking around the store, as one would expect, one sees plenty of tops with short hems. When I ask the sales attendant, I’m told the brand is pushing this look this year. Layered on top of a turtleneck sweater or shirt dress, the seamless jersey camisole (15,000 yen) I picked out here can easily boost your feminine factor. For bottoms, these blue-washed jeans (54,000 yen) present an undeniable appeal.
In the men’s category, how about this eye-catching gray leather blouson (130,000)? This is the fall and winter style of Ross and Chandler, two Friends male characters. Based on my own exhaustive personal research, these characters appear in leather blouson + knit + denim more than 70% of the time. It’s not just the silhouette—the collars and pocket flaps, the cuffs, everything is a straight line, which reinforces the minimalist feel. The difficult-to-find pastel gray color also has a nice friendly feel.
Under the blouson, this knit (47,000 yen) is middle-gauge, with a mix of colorful thread on a monotone base. The middle of the sleeves feature slits—when they bend, your elbows show, a detail from yesteryear. It’s an irresistible gem of a knit with many longtime fans. The bottoms are one-wash denim (35,000 yen) with a design that recalls painter’s pants. Wear them low, and they’re even more addicting. My slacker expression here pays homage to the runway models of the 90s (…lets just leave it at that!).
Totally immersed now in 90s fashion, I’m in full-on Friends mood. Incidentally, there’s a café in Friends called Central Perk. Nearly synonymous with the show, it’s where all the characters hang out. GINZA SIX also has lot of cafés. Now, where to go for a concluding cup of Joe? The café in the show has a casual atmosphere perfect for daily occupancy. You’ll find many cafés here, too, to relax Friends-style. But since opportunity presents itself, I decide to have some fun with luxury instead. So, for a change of atmosphere, I head up to GRAND CRU CAFÉ GINZA on the 13th floor.
This café is the product of extensive knowledge and experience—over 40 years of it—of coffee hunter Yoshiaki Kawashima, aka José. His attention to detail shines in every process, from grove to Ginza, from his careful selection of coffee farms and plants to methods for roasting, storage, and packaging. The interior design of the café is incredibly chic as well. One wall is entirely covered in fine leather—vegetable tanned and soft to the touch to tame the gloss. Combined with the retro-chic chandelier, it helps create a space both luxurious and relaxing.
Although it’s open to visitors, it’s basically a members-only establishment. As at certain bars, you buy coffee beans, then have the café retain the bottle so you can use the same beans when you come the next time. You can buy a single bottle with 100 grams of roasted beans, which brews up to six cups. The bottles run from 10,000 yen to over 100,000 yen at the high end. For me, this is definitely a stretch. But it makes for good conversation, and it’s a special experience people don’t normally encounter. The café will keep your bottle up to two weeks. There’s no additional charge the next time you come—plus, you can use the salon.
I’ve been writing “bottle” here, and it’s true, the beans actually do come in bottles! The ritual begins with the opening of the specially sourced champagne bottle. The service begins with “Evangelist” Yosuke Hasegawa opening the bottle. He lets you inhale the flavor of fresh beans curling up into the air. The cork comes off with a pop like a champagne bottle, and fresh aroma fills the air. I can’t help beaming.
I select beans grown on the Rancheria farm in Colombia (10,000 yen per bottle). I’m given a special selection of genuine Typica coffee beans hard to find elsewhere. I then have these rarities ground and carefully dripped in a beautiful cup and saucer set, leaving me totally speechless.
The set is antique Old Noritake, enthralling many collectors both in Japan and overseas. I’m told they choose the cup and saucer set based on their general impression of each customer. I get golden dragons dancing on white porcelain with inlaid red and green augite stones in various places. Truly a work of art. I’m brimming with anticipation even before I bring it to my lips.
And when I do take a sip…ahhh, supreme bliss! A sweetness recalling chocolate, with trailing wisps of bitterness. From the counter at the window, you can see down to the East Ginza streets. The view makes sipping this coffee more special still. A picture taken here would make anyone look a touch affected. Without thinking, gazing into the distance, I strike a pose.
Putting the wonderful coffee aroma behind me, with more than a little reluctance, I head home. On my way out, I spy this strange container containing minimalist conceptual art by the artist Takuro Tamayama. The notes indicate it actually is titled an “art container”; eight artists and creators have created art pieces on the theme of new meetups in containers of various sizes, installed throughout GINZA SIX until February 23, 2021. How delightful to put your smartphone away and write on a note, “Meet me in front of this or that artist work at 6 pm,” in the old mode in which we met before mobile phones. As I wait, I gaze at the art filling the container.
I’ve gone on at some length here from a personal perspective. But, honestly, with so few opportunities now to dress up and head out, fashion is probably the last thing many of you are thinking about. No need to force yourself to focus on fashion. These are simply the times we live in. But the clothes are waiting. Remember those times? Entranced by fabrics, by tailoring, by silhouettes, trying on this, trying on that, while talking to the staff, talking with your friends, saying this, saying that, buying something and the moment you first put it on. Remember putting on your favorite clothes and seeing your reflection in the building glass? Remember the sudden rush of excitement?
Clothing has power. It’s no exaggeration; I truly believe it. Try immersing yourself in the power of raiment—just slip into it. How about this weekend? And, if not, then, of course, whenever you find that you can. How wonderful to look forward to a time when we can dress up once again to our hearts’ content and stroll the streets of Ginza—to see oneself in one’s favorite clothes, reflected in building glass. If that building is GINZA SIX, nothing could make me happier.
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Text: Ryuta Morishita Photos: Takanori Hayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
Fashion editor. Born in Kumamoto Prefecture in 1986. Worked as an editor at Kodansha’s HUgE and at Hearst Fujingaho’s MEN’S CLUB. Freelance thereafter and involved in various media —advertising, catalogs, magazines, and more. Loves fashion, literature, art, film, and other forms of cultural expression.GINZASIX_OFFICIAL Instagram